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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Hi,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Joe had mentioned problems
buffing.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I also have problems in this
area.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on a softer buffing wheel, but have
been unable to find a source. The selections available at my suppliers, are
limited. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Any ideas?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on slowing the wheel down. Would
that help?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>John M. Ross</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A>
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL
MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 11:50
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I agree with you 100%, thank
you, it is wonderful that you know these things and are willing to share them.
Molded keytops are all the same dimension within one set. Keysticks
unfortunately are not (except for several sets of Yamaha keys I've covered
that were within 0.004 of each other). I've found that most sets of keys
differ in length, width and height. I have one set of keys I'm recovering now
where the keysticks vary in width up to 0.065. This makes recovering them
tricky. If you have a keystick wider than the top you will have to trim the
stick, if the top is wider you will have to trim the top. Molded tops being
the same width have the contours and radiuses "molded" into them, so if you
trim this you will, as you said then have to reshape them, the radiuses and
contour to match and yes, the dreaded buffing. I prefer to apply what I call
custom tops. This is similar to factory procedures in which you apply a
separate top and front. If done this way one can trim the excess and shape the
keys regardless of the inconsistencies in width and yield good visual results.
I've found that buffing plastic and ivory both have there areas of concern,
but I use different wheels and techniques for both with good results. On the
topic of keytop materials, I'm pretty sure I have all of the material
available within the states and offer them. I have also acquired material from
Aug. Laukhuff and Otto Heuss from Germany as well as P&S organ supply
from England. These materials are of very high quality and texture but expense
prevents their wide use. I've noticed that piano manufacturers are trending
towards thicker and thicker tops, this means replacement tops will need to be
thicker. I actually have a stash of keytop material that is 0.105 thick, but
very rarely use them. I am not adverse to machining down the keystick to
accommodate a new top because I am doing it on milling machines with
tolerances to within a few thousandths of an inch, and it must be done. If one
measures a keystick at 0.970 and is putting on a top that is 0.075 than you
machine the key to 0.895 and you have retained the original dimension. The
original dimension must be maintained or there will be a regulation nightmare.
In some cases I find that a keystick has been machined with little regard
for tolerances, and then a corrective measure must be applied. Three choices
exist, have a new keyboard made, use a thicker or thinner top (depending on
which direction the error is made), or build up the keys. Two of these choices
are very expensive. Keytop replacement is tricky and is a decision that should
be well thought out. The keyboard is a major focal point of the piano, it
is the interaction point with the piano and is the foundation of all
regulation. It is a challenge to balance appearance, playability and economy.
Joe, what do you mean by "stink in my shop?" are you referring to a particular
glue or the smell of machining off old plastic and ivory?
Mike</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joegarrett@earthlink.net href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">Joe
Garrett</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 1:03
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael Morvan said: "<FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3>The quality of the keytop, quality of the
=<BR>piano, quality of the rebuild, preference of the customer, knowledge
and =<BR>preference of the technician and budget. Crappy "molded" keytops
are =<BR>nice if applied properly, and three thousand dollars worth of new
ivory =<BR>is "crappy" if not applied properly. Molded keytops have the
advantage =<BR>of being inexpensive, uniform in shape and appearance, and
relatively =<BR>easy to apply with minimal skill, tooling and yields fair
results. A =<BR>disadvantage is that many people feel that they are a
cheap top and as a =<BR>result do not use them."</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Michael,</DIV>
<DIV>What you've said, I agree with. However, it's what you didn't say about
moulded keytops that concerns me.</DIV>
<DIV>1. Moulded keytops assumes that all key sets are the same dimension,
which they are not. Therefore, trimming is necessary. Here lies the rub, as
trimming of moulded keytop material is far more difficult than other
materials. Especially in making the key set look consistant and have a
smooth feel under the players hands. Secondly, if you've ever had to (try)
to buff out scratches of moulded key top material, (and I'm sure you have,
if you do keytops for a living.), it's next to impossible, as the material
is too soft and will "burn/gaul" when even light pressure on a buffing wheel
is applied. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's a royal pain in the
patoot to do!<G> Lastly, my aversion to moulded keytops is that it is
too thick, especially for many older pianos with tight tolerances of the
piano furniture. This requires milling the keystick down. I am totally
averse to this practice for many reasons. Some of the "moulded keytop
material" from Europe is better as some of it is what we call "Plexiglass".
This material can be sanded and buffed. It's still too thick for my
eye.<G> I too do keytops, but as only part of my overall service to my
clients. I used to have someone else do it, as I really don't like the stink
in my shop. Out of frustration with others I've taken to doing it....stink
or not.<G></DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool
Police<BR>Squares R I</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>