<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regarding "re"-locating the holes on an = open faced block: I've used Mylar. What a pain in the butt that stuff is! Yes it's = accurate and dimensionally stable, but it's a pain to use, (fitting in/around = obstacles, etc.). I prefer the paper pattern. I prefer Butcher paper; the kind that = has a plastic backing and is white. That way if there are things to correct, = you can draw on the pattern, etc. Once I've got the paper pattern, I check to = see if all the pin rows are in a straight line, vertically, Horizontally and = especially Diagonally. If there were little foibles, the diagonal will tell you. = <G> One area, that this, sometimes, does not applyto, is right at the = "break" area of tenor to bass. A lot of times the designer tended to "crowd" the = string pattern in that area.  One other thing, I've learned is: = before removing the strings, check to see if there are strings that are riding = on other tuning pins, etc. take good notes and you shouldn't have too much of a = problem. Also, it is best to have a good Drilling Fixture, that will not allow = the drill bit to "wonder". I recall yours, so you shouldn't have too much trouble = there, either. I'd use a short bit to cut down on the bit flex. Hope that help's</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool Police<BR>Squares R I</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>