<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN = class=550164015-17012001>Hey Carl, </SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN = class=550164015-17012001>I have two of those I'm working on.  My opinion.... Jack should drop of = it's own weight.  The factory spec should be ignored and compromises should = be made to make the piano play as good as possible, so, blow distance, dip, key = height can be changed within reason to maximize feel and response.  I = usually use the PTG spec book to get the key height close, blow close, dip close and = see what it gives me, then I modify one or all to get the best rep and feel, = etc.  Of course there is a point where any of the three can be = changed too much.  Hammers must be of similar weight/width to originals.  = I've ordered the Steinway felt before.  Always very nice, but = expensive.  You will have to modify anything you buy.  Strips of Yamaha felt is = very good to cut to fit.  You can add backing (comes with it) to get the = right size/thickness.  Good luck.  </SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=550164015-17012001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=550164015-17012001>PS</SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN = class=550164015-17012001>there was an article in the Journal a year or three ago about rescaling that piano.  I was going to reread it before stringing.  I remember = doubles at the break were switched to tri's or vs vs.</SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN = class=550164015-17012001> <P><FONT size=2>Lance Lafargue, RPT<BR>Mandeville, LA<BR>New Orleans = Chapter, PTG<BR>lancelafargue@bellsouth.net</FONT> </P></SPAN></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=550164015-17012001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=550164015-17012001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT = face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> = owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Meyer = Carl<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 17, 2001 1:03 AM<BR><B>To:</B> pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> S and S K52<BR><BR></DIV></FONT> <DIV><FONT size=2>List:</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I'm presently working on a 1909 S&S K52.  = It was professionally refinished.  I've so far replaced the keytops, rescaled with PSCALE, and restrung using wound strings = on the first 5 notes above the bass break.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Prior to stringing I lowered the plate w/o = removing it by using a saber saw to take the thickness or height of the dowels down = by one saw kerf. As the screws rose toward the treble side I used = progressively thinner blades (some by hand for accessability).  Along the = bottom I used more than one kerf as required to get the downbearing I = wanted.  I found I had to remove most of the screws completely and lube with bees = wax in order to pull them down.  Rust and corrosion made them just too = tight to move.  This worked rather well.  I cleaned the bridge by = clamping a brass brush to the blade of an electric carving knife. The brass brush = was about the size of a toothbrush.  Then by sections I warmed the = bridge with a hair drier and applied Epotec 301 epoxy to all the pins. I = then rewarmed with the hair drier to help penetration of the epoxy.  = Since that is slow setting stuff, I waited awhile and then removed the = excess by brushing the whole bridge with a dry paint brush, wiping the brush often.  I ended up with a nice looking bridge with a coating of = epoxy on it.  Might not look good enough for a grand, but looks = okay.  After overnight cure, The surface seemed a bit tacky, so I sprinkled talc = on  it and brushed it in and then blew off the excess with my air = hose.  That worked pretty good considering it didn't take long at all except for = the cure time.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>So now, I'm starting to regulate and replace the dampers.  Hammers are decent but not original.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I now have several questions, since I'm not one = who (only works on Steinways), actually seldom do.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>In the piano action handbook it calls for .4 = inches dip.  I see specs  that vary for dip and I've thought that = since the dip is the first interface between the performer and the instrument it = would seem that uniform dip from piano to piano would be desirable. In most = cases regulation can compensate for different dips, so a uniform dip = could be used.  I'm not a player so perhaps I don't have a feel for this. = Anybody have any strong opinions on this?  How sacred is following the manufacturing specs regarding dip?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I found that repetition was poor in the high = treble.  I found action centers were a bit tight especially the jack.  After = water and alky, protec and the zapper, it repeats better, but key 88 has a = chunk of lead in it and the dowel capstan pushes up about14 grams.  Now = the weight of the whippen is not much more than that, so if there is some lost = motion then the whippen may not even push the key down beyond the lost motion = and that will produce a key leveling problem.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Question:  What is the criteria for jack tightness?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>A gram gauge at the end of the jack should read no = more that what?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Question:  Should I remove lead to get better = repetion and have better up weight and down weight?  Or am I missing something?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Last question:  The dampers of S&S = uprights as well as Mason and Hamlin are very different than most uprights.  The = felt between the block and the popsicle stick is much thicker than standard = supply house dampers. They have the popsicle sticks in the center section as well.  What do you do to replace those?  Steinway has a set = of dampers in their price list for 121 dollars, and I don't even know = what they consist of.  Anybody use them, or do you just adapt standard dampers?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Comments anybody?  Thanks in = advance!!!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Carl Meyer</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>