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<DIV> <FONT size=4> Dittos Terry--</FONT><FONT size=
=3> We always turn the air up slow and look for the glue to squezze o=
ut evenly under the rib/board joint and look for any places where it didn't =
which means it was too dry. I'm using 40 P.S.I. Seems to be plenty. In the e=
vent it looks too dry we pull it off after only a minute or two and even the=
n its a struggle to get it apart with the tight bond which means it's quite =
tacky.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Regards---Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue =
2px solid"><FONT face=Arial>Not only skid potential, but with the right te=
chnique (takes a lot of<BR>experience and expertise here) you can actually s=
hoot a rib across the room<BR>(talk about having some glue to clean up)! I h=
ave found, as I think Ron N.<BR>pointed out, that slow application of air pr=
essure is the best way to avoid<BR>rib movement. That initial "tack" seems t=
o set up pretty good in just a<BR>minute or two - you can get that initial t=
ack with five or ten pounds of<BR>air - not enough to send the rib elsewhere=
, but enough to get the initial<BR>tack. Best way to tell if you have put to=
o much air in hose initially is if<BR>the rib moves. ;-)<BR><BR>=
Terry Farrell<BR><BR>----- Original Message ----- <BR>From: "Ron Nossaman" &=
lt;RNossaman@cox.net><BR>To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org><BR>Sen=
t: Monday, September 22, 2003 11:02 PM<BR>Subject: Re: Glue cleanup on ribs<=
BR><BR><BR>><BR>> > Ron now that you mention it I haven=
't encountered any skid with the<BR>> > tight bond only the cold hide.=
I'll try the next one with out the no. 6<BR>> > bridge pins and tight=
bond. Great one less step to do!<BR>><BR>> Dale, not necessarily. A f=
ew variables yet. Proceed cautiously. Less<BR>chance<BR>> of skid doesn't=
exactly equate to no chance of skid.<BR>><BR>> Ron N<BR>></FONT></=
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