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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=gnewell@ameritech.net =
href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">Greg
Newell</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 12, 2003 =
10:14
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: uprights, hammer
boring</DIV>
=
<DIV><BR></DIV>Keith,<BR><X-TAB>  =
; </X-TAB>I
believe that Newton Hunt wrote something about this a while back on =
this list.
You could search for it in the archives. If you find it feel free to =
repost.
I'm sure many would be interested. I seem to remember that bore =
distance was
the same as a grand in that butt flange center pin to string is the =
bore
distance. As far as rake goes I really don't remember. I don't replace =
a great
deal of hammers myself.
=
<BR><X-TAB> </X-TAB>This =
brings
up a question for me that perhaps someone can answer. Although I don't =
replace
many sets of hammers on uprights I presently have occasion to replace =
a set on
an old Gulbransen upright. I tried to measure from the butt center pin =
to the
string and I just couldn't get a measuring device in there to take the =
measurement. Anyone have a tip on what I could use to get a good =
reading?
Might be too late for this set but I'd sure like to know for the next
one.<BR><BR>Greg<BR><BR><BR>At 05:28 PM 3/12/2003, you wrote:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=cite cite="" type="cite"><FONT face=arial =
size=2>I gave
the technical on hammer boring at the chapter meeting, (with the =
back-up of
the RPTs at the meeting), and nobody could explain what the criteria =
would
be for determining hammer bore distance and rake for optimum =
performance on
an upright. Sure, go by the original is an easy answer but what if =
it looks
as if somebody who "hadn't a clue" put those hammers on. I have 3 =
old
uprights here, a 1909 Smith and Barnes, a 1911 A.B. Cameron, and a =
1906
Kohler and Chase. The first two, the hammers shanks are close to =
parallel
with the string plane, and the rake is minimal. Or, worded =
differently, the
bore distance is the distance from the hammer flange center pin to =
the
string plane. Rake is 1 or 2 degrees. </FONT><BR><FONT face=arial =
size=2>The
Kohler has much more rake, 5+ degrees and the shank is at the =
similar angle
to the string plane so the hammer is square to the string plane when =
it
hits.</FONT><BR><FONT face=arial size=2>Why?</FONT><BR><FONT =
face=arial
size=2>Should I be looking at the angle of the jack to the whippen =
at the
start of lift? The hammer butt/jack angle at let =
off?</FONT><BR><FONT
face=arial size=2>Or maybe it was something simple, like the =
little bit more
clearance that could be had by moving the action closer to the
strings.</FONT><BR><FONT face=arial =
size=2>Anybody?</FONT><BR><FONT
face=arial size=2>Keith Roberts</FONT><BR><BR>---<BR><BR>Checked =
by AVG
anti-virus system (<A href="http://www.grisoft.com/"
eudora="autourl">http://www.grisoft.com</A>).<BR>Version: 6.0.459 =
/ Virus
Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003</BLOCKQUOTE><X-SIGSEP>
<P></X-SIGSEP>Greg Newell<BR><A href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net"
eudora="autourl">mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net</A>
<P>
<HR>
<P></P><BR>---<BR><BR>Checked by AVG anti-virus system
(http://www.grisoft.com).<BR>Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - =
Release
Date: 2/25/2003<BR>
<P>
<HR>
<P></P>
<DIV>_______________________________________________<BR>pianotech list =
info:
<A
=
href="https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives">http://www.ptg.org=
/mailman/listinfo/pianotech</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Can you remove just a couple damper levers and butts to get a =
small ruler
in there? --Dave Nereson, RPT,
Denver<BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>