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<DIV>Hi David -</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I saw the same article, and was also intrigued by the guy's method.&=
nbsp;
The biggest drawback in applying this method to a soundboard I would think =
would
be the bridge being a bit difficult to work around. A flat, =
unobstructed
surface would be much better, to be sure. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Spraying is hard to beat in a game like this. </DIV>
<DIV>Still, I'm sure his procedure would yield very fine results.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Mark Potter</DIV>
<DIV><A href="mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com">bases-loaded@juno.com</A></=
DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>On Mon, 7 Jan 2002 22:00:37 -0800 "David Love" <<A
href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">davidlovepianos@earthlink.net=
</A>>
writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px; PADDING-LEFT: =
10px">
<DIV><FONT size=2>There was a very interesting article in this month's =
Fine
Woodworking magazine that discussed a method of using spar varnish for
finishing furniture. It involved sanding the varnish into the wood =
in
successive coats using finer and finer sandpaper. The sanding =
created a
kind of slurry which acts to fill the grain of the wood. The excess=
varnish is then wiped off and allowed to dry before the next finer grit =
is
used on the subsequent coat.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I have always liked using varnish on soundboards for =
its
durability and look, but have found it a bit of a headache because =
of the
time it takes to dry and the problems with dust. This method =
supposedly
avoids that and creates a rather lustrous finish. Has anyone tried =
this
method? Any comments. The article mentions that for large =
surfaces
you may want to use two people. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>David Love</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>