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<DIV>Hi,</DIV>
<DIV>Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean off with water.</DIV>
<DIV>I take the keytop surface down to compenasate for the different thickness,
of the one piece plastic keytop I use.</DIV>
<DIV>I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this.</DIV>
<DIV>I still use a disc/belt sander to get the keytops close to size ,
and finish off with a file.</DIV>
<DIV>I would not use contact cement.</DIV>
<DIV>There is no telling how long it will take you to do your first job, I
remember one guy telling me it took him 12 hours.</DIV>
<DIV>Your time will improve as you get your methods and jigs in line.</DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mickeykes2@uf.znet.com href="mailto:mickeykes2@uf.znet.com">Mickey
Kessler</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> (no subject)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=3>Hi all,<BR><BR>I'm considering replacing all the
keytops on a PSO owned by my cousin. If this were a really good
instrument I'd probably just send the keys out to a recovering house
(actually, I'd turn the whole thing over to somebody who's really into
rebuilding, which I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather, an
opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for the experience.<BR><BR>A
few questions:<BR><BR>1. Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on
using contact cement. This scares me; it doesn't allow for much
error. On the other hand, if I use more forgiving glue, it'll require
clamping, which the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to shim a
straightedge to the keyslip in order to line up all the keyfronts exactly the
same). Can anybody recommend a better procedure that will also ensure
uniformity? And while we're on the subject, what's the best glue to
use?<BR><BR>2. The supply houses sell a variety of keytops. Any
preferences regarding one-piece tops and fronts as opposed to two-piece?
I'm thinking now that I'll use the one-piece. Am I asking for trouble?
Would I learn more by using two-piece? Should I get thick or thin or
doesn't it matter? Do the one-piece tops require clamping in two
directions?<BR><BR>3. Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the
wood? Can I do that without the expensive Oslund machines that Reblitz
describes? How bad must the surface be before it should be
resurfaced? I'm guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a lot of
unevenness -- am I wrong?<BR><BR>4. Any thoughts about how much time I
should allot for the job?<BR><BR>Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all
your knowledge. I've learned more from this group than from just about
any other source. The generosity of this profession is truly
admirable.<BR><BR>Mickey Kessler<BR>PTG
Assoc.<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>