<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; FONT: 10pt = verdana; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none" bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>Though there are some "other" techniques being = talked about, I would stick with lacquer/acetone.  The ratio of the = mix will depend on the amount of solids in the lacquer, the type of hammer and = what you are trying to accomplish.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>With S&S hammers I use a nitrocellulose = lacquer diluted with acetone in varying strengths: 3:1, 4:1 and 5:1.  I = will use the stronger mixes in the upper range (1st and 2nd capo sections) and = weaker mixes going down.  With the S&S hammer the mixture must = penetrate under the strike point.  I actually apply the lacquer from the sides of = the hammer so that I can get it directly under the strike point and not = let it get to the crown--especially important in the low tenor.  If I want = to bring out the attack a bit I will then apply a few drops (or less) = directly on the strike point.  In situations where you need quick results = (for instance, pre concert prep) you can use plastic dissolved in = acetone.  The S&S concert techs use one keytop (and front) dissolved in 8 oz. of acetone.  I would not use this solution for trying to build up the = overall firmness of the hammer (though some people do).  Note that = lacquer solutions must be allowed to dry for at least a couple hours and better overnight.  They will continue to harden somewhat over the ensuing weeks.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>By the way, I don't use hardeners on tensioned = hammers (Renner, Abel) except in very unusual situations.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial>David Love</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV> <DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=pianomitch@hotmail.com = href="mailto:pianomitch@hotmail.com">Mitch Ruth</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> July 19, 2001 8:12 = PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Shellac and = Everclear</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV>List,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I was just searching the archives for advice on "juicing" hammers.  I may have a need for doing so in the morning.  = Susan Kline started a thread in which she mentions using shellac and alcohol = as a hardening agent.  She also mentions that she likes to use shellac = flakes instead of premixed shellac.  For those of you who use this = concoction, are the flakes a preference or a requirement to do a decent job?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Thanks...</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Mitch Ruth</DIV> <DIV>DeMossville, KY<BR><BR></DIV><BR clear=all> <HR> Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : <A href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</A><BR> <P></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>