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Hi Wally.<br>
Most of theire parts are made from the denser European Hornbeam.
It's a superior material in many ways, and machines much nicer.
That's why you have that nice silky feel on the German parts. The
increase in mass how ever, has to be considered.<br>
Renner Flange cloth is graphited, and can be a seasonal problem in some
areas. ( Due to it's Hygroscopic nature)<br>
Yes, I have had to repin a few flanges on Tokiwa shanks. Not enough to
be a concern. But no were near as bad as North American
product. I have never had a set that required a lot of repinning,
as you have stated<br>
Travel issues seam about the same on all 3 suppliers.<br>
Regards Roger<br>
<br>
<br>
At 06:52 AM 4/8/01 -0400, you wrote: <br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>Roger - <br>
<br>
A couple questions on your remarks here. Are Renner & Abel
parts not maple? If not, what are they?<br>
<br>
I don't use Tokiwas any more because I find the quality lacking in
comparison. A new set requires much more repinning than Renner or
Abel. I always expect to have to do a few, but not most of the
set. Apparently that hasn't been your experience . . . .<br>
<br>
Wally Wilson, RPT<br>
Ravenswood, WV<br>
Columbus, OH Chapter<br>
<br>
At 01:24 AM 4/8/01 -0500, you wrote: <br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>Hi Dale,<br>
I've
found the Tokiwa parts to be every bit as good as Renner and Abel.
The wippens are 1gm lighter than Renner, and are maple. A definite
advantage where touch weight is a concern.<br>
<br>
Like you I have a complete set of Renner, Abel, Tokiwa, and North
American Parts. It takes all the guess work out of ordering, when
you do mock up prior to starting.<br>
<br>
I like to do DW/UW/friction measurements with the old parts, then install
each part, measure and compare to see cause and effect. I
then order the parts. <br>
This I do, after rebushing, fully servicing, and fitting the keybed for
correct bushing clearance etc.<br>
As this can skew results, and it further reduces the risk of error.<br>
<br>
Maybe this will be helpful to some.<br>
Regards Roger<br>
<br>
PS. Some of Wally's parts are Tokiwa.<br>
<br>
At 05:49 PM 4/7/01 -0700, you wrote: <br>
<font face="arial" size=2><blockquote type=cite cite>
Wim</font><br>
<br>
<font size=3> I've done this twice and I believe that
the parts I used to match the old ones came from pacific(the tokiwa
parts). As much as I've heard these parts denigrated by some I have
found the complaints unfounded. In fact they are very well made
parts and I don't hesitate to use them when needed. I suspect
that Renner and Brooks(Abel) have parts that would fit as well and I'm
sure that the new line of Tokiwa knabe and chickering wippens will be a
welcome asset to our parts replacement endeavors and possibly yours. To
my knowledge no other maker provides these style wippens<br>
Typically when I replace action parts I
have a complete set(almost) of sample parts from most parts makers that I
simply match the best part for a particular
application. Myyyyy, isn't life Grand to have so many choices these
days. Persevere Wim a solution is out there. <br>
Finding appropriate parts isn't difficult like it used to be
in yrs past. I'll you have to do is order them. Each part
maker I know either has demo kits or a full size picture of their
parts.<br>
One last word of caution. The chickering
piano used very light hammers and matching them is difficult. Beside a
6ft. 4" chickering would benefit tonally from more hammer
weight(strike wt.) which means a shank with a different knuckle spread
might be a better choice to help carry the extra gram or so.<br>
<br>
</font><font face="arial"> Best</font><br>
<br>
Dale Erwin<br>
<br>
<br>
----- Original Message ----- <br>
<b>From:</b> <a href="mailto:Wimblees@AOL.COM">Wimblees@AOL.COM</a>
<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a> <br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 07, 2001 3:19 PM<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: Chickering brass flanges<br>
<br>
<font face="arial" size=2>In a message dated 4/7/01 3:07:22 PM Central Daylight Time, <a href="mailto:JIMRPT@AOL.COM"><font size=2>JIMRPT@AOL.COM</a><font size=2> <br>
writes: <br>
<br>
<br>
<font size=2><blockquote type=cite cite>NO!! :-) Definitely not if it is going to be in a recording studio. I would <br>
think that a change of flanges would be the safest route in this instance. <br>
I <br>
<font size=2>don't think that one of these thingees, with brass flanges, would have been <br>
suitable for a recording studio even when they were brand new. </blockquote><br>
<br>
<font size=2>OK, so if bar-b-queing the flanges is not recommended, then I need to go on <br>
to the next step, which is replacing the brass flanges with wooden ones. I am <br>
more than happy to do this. But, and this is where I was hoping some of you <br>
could help, what size do I get? Has anyone had any experience replacing brass <br>
with wood flanges, both the hammer and wippens. <br>
<br>
Wim </blockquote><br>
</blockquote><br>
</font><br>
</blockquote><br>
<br>
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