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soundboards???</TITLE>
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<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT =
face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
[mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Sarah
Fox<BR><B>Sent:</B> February 15, 2004 8:58 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
Pianotech<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Plywood shrinkage??? Laminated
soundboards???<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm just curious about the moisture =
blocking
properties of the SB finish: How much does the finish alter the =
rate of
MC change in a SB? I presume it depends on the type and =
thickness of
finish used. Has anyone done any side-by-side
measurements?</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV dir=ltr><SPAN class=406452621-15022004><FONT face="Comic Sans =
MS"
color=#0000ff>Yes. Check the archives. Basically, I know of no finish =
material
other than multiple coats of epoxy that will form a effective vapor =
barrier when
applied to wood.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Back to the plywood...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regarding quality: Although the =
drawer
bottoms may be constructed of relatively poor quality material, =
I would
strongly suspect only the best materials are used in boat =
construction.
In fact knowing some boating enthusiasts, who pour unbelievable =
amounts of
money into their surrogate babies, I'd suspect the quality of these =
materials
would rival what you builders/rebuilders use! Furthermore, the =
reference
to boat deck plywood shrinkage is most likely with regard to =
modern-day
materials.</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV dir=ltr><SPAN class=406452621-15022004><FONT face="Comic Sans =
MS"
color=#0000ff>The shrinkage/expansion potential has more to do with =
the physical
characteristics of the wood used (its compression strength perpendicular =
to
grain, etc.), the type of adhesive used (its rigidity and/or =
its cold-flow
characteristics) and the thickness of the veneers used than its =
"quality." In
other words, a "high quality" plywood using top-grade, relative thick, =
hardwood
veneers might be less stable than a "cheap" plywood using thinner =
doug-fir
peeler veneers.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr><SPAN class=406452621-15022004><FONT face="Comic Sans =
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color=#0000ff>And on the starting moisture content. Wood, regardless =
of how it
is configured, does not continue to shrink just because it gets older. =
It must
start its shrink from somewhere and that somewhere depends on how much =
moisture
is bound in the cells of the wood. Once that moisture is gone the wood =
stops
shrinking. If moisture gets back in the wood expands -- that is the =
opposite of shrinking -- until the cells are saturated, then it stops =
expanding.
In other words there will be a range within which the wood will move. =
There will
be a maximum dimension and a minimum dimension, both dependent on =
moisture.
Regardless of what you do to it, it doesn't just keep on shrinking. =
Well, I
guess you could burn the stuff ... it shrinks quite a bit
then.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr><SPAN class=406452621-15022004><FONT face="Comic Sans =
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color=#0000ff>Because of its cross-banded nature plywood is far more =
stable than
so-called "solid" wood. But there will still be some nominal movement =
with
changes in moisture content, but these changes will always be subject to =
the
basic laws that govern wood strength and wood =
movement.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I suspect shrinkage may be the fate =
under extreme
conditions. The boat deck plywood obviously gets baked in the =
sun,
doused with water, and so forth. Drawer bottoms can frequently =
be wiped
out with wet rags -- which while not as extreme, still creates a rapid =
and
drastic changes in MC. Perhaps more importantly, another dynamic =
is
going on in both these cases. Deposition of water is never =
uniform,
whether through leakage past finish defects (boat) or through =
differential
deposition of water with a wet rag. This can cause a lot of =
internal
stress and strain in the panel. For instance, if a small =
spot in
the center of a panel is soaked with water,and the surrounding board =
remains
dry, the swollen center spot will be compressed within the "frame" of =
the
surrounding wood.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
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class=406452621-15022004> </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff><SPAN
class=406452621-15022004>All of this is true, but please remember that =
in most
plywood construction the laminae are quite thin. Thin enough that they =
are no
longer capable of creating much in the way of compression (to expand the =
panel)
or tension (to cause it to shrink). That is the whole point of plywood. =
It is
the relative thinness of the laminae and the crossbanding that gives =
plywood its
relative stability.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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class=406452621-15022004></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff><SPAN
class=406452621-15022004>Nor am I convinced by the many tales boat =
owners tell
of their plywood decks "shrinking." Solid teak overlays certainly do =
swell and
shrink and boat hulls certainly do twist and warp and I wonder just how =
any of
them are so certain it is the plywood decking that is "shrinking." I've =
lived on
and been around too many boats and have listened to way too much pure =
poppycock
from boat owners (many of whom should know better) about their
boats to believe much of anything they have to say about their =
boats
without verifying it first. The most memorable tale of shrinking plywood =
decking
-- it couldn't be the fiberglas hull, could it? -- turned out to be the =
hull
that was literally coming apart. The was spreading across the beam, =
ultimately
splitting the joint between the hull and the fiberglas deck molding. The =
plywood
decking turned out to be about the only thing that was holding the thing =
together.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=#0000ff><SPAN
class=406452621-15022004>Del</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>