<html> David, This basic damper tray design is used in many brands of pianos.  Like anything, they can fail - especially when you have a good pedal stomper at the keyboard.  We find that the wood block fails just as often as the flange does, and I daresay that damper tray pins also get bent and work loose in other designs as well. To order any Kawai parts or get answers to questions, you should call (800) 421-2177.  We still have the technical bulletin which Jim Harvey prepared for replacing these parts  without removing all the dampers.  If you ask for piano parts, we can supply flanges and blocks for these pianos.  You should provide the model and serial number to be sure we send the right one. To prevent these from breaking again, adjust the pedal stop capstan under the keybed down so that the dampers are not lifted too high.  In almost all cases where the damper tray pivots have broken, you will find that the dampers are being lifted too far, and the levers are jamming on the upstop rail.  In many cases I find that the trap lever stop capstan has also been forced up into the keybed by heavy pedal stomping! After the pedal stop capstan is adjusted, stomp hard on the pedal yourself to make sure it won't be pushed up into the keybed during use.  If it is loose, take out the capstan, insert a strip of buckskin coated with white glue into the hole, and re-install the capstan. If the pedal stop is solid and adjusted correctly (the dampers should lift the same or slightly less with the pedal compared with a sharp key), and the upstop is also adjusted correctly, and if you make sure the damper tray center pins are nice and snug fitting (much tighter than a normal action center), you should have a reliable system.  Keep an eye on the adjustments at each tuning, and you should prevent further damage. Don Mannino RPT At 08:35 PM 1/29/01 +0000, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>List: I've run into this problem on several Kawai grands and am interested in any input.  The plastic flanges that hinge the underlever tray either break or the pins get loose or shear off.  Access to these without removing the dampers seems most difficult.  Any suggestions as to how to approach replacing these flanges without removing all the dampers would be appreciated.  I am inclined to replace these flanges with wooden flanges.  Is this a standard flange?  Available from? Thanks _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com/" eudora="autourl">http://explorer.msn.com</a> </blockquote></html>