<html><DIV></DIV> <DIV>Dale,</DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>Me too,  I offer up my gratitude to all who suggested shellac!</DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>After two coats of spray shellac, sanding in between all coats, and a coat of gold enamel, the fish-eyes are gone and tomorrow I can put the top clear coat on.  Whew!   <IMG height=12 src="http://64.4.16.24/emsmile.gif" width=12></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV>Diane</DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>From: "Erwinpiano" <ERWINPIANO@EMAIL.MSN.COM> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>To: <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>Subject: shellac sealer on plate yes yes yes <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 20:00:34 -0700 <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>>To Rodger,Diane ,Terry and list <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> Thanks for those of you who recently responded to my query on plate finishing ,sandblasting and such. <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> After sandblasting a rusty Mason A plate that also had a automotive finish gone astray partly do to technical difficulties on my part, I was able to build it back up with a rust inhibitor called por-15. I followed this with a tie coat primer of the same brand. Both of these were said by the factory rep. to be compatible with my usual applications of acrylic lacquer sanding sealer and clear coats. They were not! As I was building up the sealer I was starting to get some slight crinkling of the under coat(tie coat primer) Which by the way is a high tech new fangled polyurethane coating.The thinner was penetrating and causing a problem which was not supposed to be possible. <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> Wanting desperately to save all that hard work you all made a completely logical suggestion to seal it with shellac. I thought you all were brilliant . Shellac has completely dis-similar solvents. I did a final sanding of the sealer ,which was no really smooth ,and applied the shellac. Let that dry 8hrs. in 100 degree heat(calif. style) and then resprayed another final coat of the sealer and every thing is flat and smooth,ready for the gold and clear coats. <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> In my last post to Diane I had said that some times sandblasting is necessary to remove original base coats gone bad. And as things go I just started on a stwy A plate that has had an after factory coating(cheap paint job of unknown origin) that brittalized everything done to the japanning( the black under coat) I have scraped much of it off (instead off blasting) off in an effort to save the japanning. Some times there just ain't no easy way. <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> So I will scrape sand and seal with shellac then primer and sand till smooth. Thanks for the help. <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV>> Best Dale Erwin <DIV></DIV> <DIV></DIV><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a href="http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></html>