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<DIV>What is a stroke sander?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry Farrell</DIV>
<DIV> <SPAN id=__#Ath#SignaturePos__></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message -----</DIV>
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">Farrell</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> January 16, 2002 4:57 =
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: my own
Soundboard</DIV> So then you are gluing up your 24" subpanels =
after
they have been planed to the soundboard's final thickness (not =
counting
edge tapering)? Can one edge glue accurately enough to get a real =
even
subpanel-to-subpanel joint (no step from one to the other)? I was
envisioning gluing up a whole soundboard panel that was thicker =
than
needed and then (after driving the panel to a shop with BIG
sanders/planers) running the whole thing through a planer device =
to get
your nice consistent final (before tapering) thickness. If I am
understanding your process, you do the above on your smaller =
subpanels,
but then when you have glued your subpanels together, you do any =
slight
evening up by a hand plane or sanding (or maybe even that is not =
needed?)?
Thanks. Terry Farrell </BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080>No. We thickness to 9 mm then =
sand to final
thickness. We have a large stroke sander that makes the job a bit
easier.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr><FONT color=#000080>We did try a drum sander once =
but without
much success. The spruce gummed it up pretty bad. I'd be interested =
on the
experience of others.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><FONT
color=#000080>Del</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>