<HTML>In a message dated 01/05/2001 12:23:48 AM Central Standard Time, jonpage@mediaone.net writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> PS  I take issue with methods other than Bill Spurlock's routing method. Afterall, the other methods seem to merely force the crack wider, compressing, destroying the wood/cell structure and glazing the surface. No wonder I see shims cracked. I don't want to duplicate previous poor woodworking procedures. Not to mention the dry rot which we all know about.     Epoxy </BLOCKQUOTE> Jon,  just thought I would comment on your PS, I agree completely with you, (maybe I should have told you to sit down before I said that).  Most of the tools for widening cracks for shimming have been designed as wedges, this does exactly as you described, compressing the fibers and therefore weakening and destroying them.  I fabricate my own vee tool that cuts the fibers clean therefore removing the damaged wood at the crack and providing good wood for the shim to seat against.  I have been able to service pianos that we rebuilt years ago (some of them 25 years ago) and have found the shims were still good with no sign of cracking.   I have seen your epoxied boards and find them superb as well, I find both methods acceptable. David Koelzer Associate Member DFW</HTML>