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<DIV>Although I don't know for sure how long my recommended method will =
last, I
do know there are many types of epoxy out there and many of them will =
not
necessarily make a strong bond to wood. At <A
href="http://westsystem.com">http://westsystem.com</A>, in the user =
manual is
the process I follow. Also in the user manual are all sorts of =
recommendations
for surface prep of various woods, etc. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#ff0000>Two-step bonding</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#ff0000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#ff0000>1. Wet-out bonding surfaces-Apply a neat =
resin/hardener
mixture (without fillers) to the surfaces to be joined (Figure 9). Wet =
out small
or tight areas with a disposable brush. Wet out larger areas with a foam =
roller
or by spreading the resin/hardener mixture evenly over the surface with =
a
plastic spreader. You may proceed with step two immediately or any time =
before
the wet-out coat reaches the final cure stage.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#ff0000> <BR>2. Apply =
thickened epoxy
to one bonding surface. Modify the resin/hardener mixture by stirring in =
the
appropriate filler until it becomes thick enough to bridge any gaps =
between the
mating surfaces and to prevent "resin-starved" joints. Apply enough of =
the
mixture to one of the surfaces, so that a small amount will squeeze out =
when the
surfaces are joined together with a force equivalent to a firm hand grip =
(Figure
10).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#ff0000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#ff0000>Thickened epoxy can be applied immediately =
over the
wet-out surface or any time before the wet-out reaches its final cure. =
For most
small bonding operations, add the filler to the resin/hardener mixture =
remaining
in the batch that was used for the wet-out. Mix enough resin/hardener =
for both
steps. Add the filler quickly after the surface is wet out and allow for =
a
shorter working life of the mixture.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Used properly, I suspect a good epoxy like West System will hold up =
at
least as long as the rest of the pinblock. West System epoxys have been =
used in
the marine industry for at least three decades. The iceboats and other =
boats put
together with this epoxy experience much more drastic climactic =
conditions than
(most) any piano pinblock will ever see.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Still not proof for pinblock plugs. But I feel comfortable with the =
process
when done according to manufacturers </DIV>
<DIV> <BR></DIV>
<DIV> <SPAN id=__#Ath#SignaturePos__></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message -----
<DIV>From: "Delwin D Fandrich" <<A
href="mailto:pianobuilders@olynet.com">pianobuilders@olynet.com</A>>=
</DIV>
<DIV>To: "Pianotech" <<A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>></DIV>
<DIV>Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 12:00 PM</DIV>
<DIV>Subject: Re: Knabe Grand/Plugs</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>> <BR>> ----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: =
"Ron
Nossaman" <<A
href="mailto:RNossaman@cox.net">RNossaman@cox.net</A>><BR>> To:
"Pianotech" <<A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>><BR>> =
Sent: December
31, 2002 8:30 AM<BR>> Subject: Re: Knabe Grand/Plugs<BR>> <BR>> =
<BR>> ><BR>> > >Plugging an intact pin block is often my =
choice,
especially with<BR>> open-faced<BR>> > >types. I use 3/4" =
plugs so
that they interlock. Once that is<BR>> accomplished, I<BR>> >
>veneer over the plugs with something like birdseye maple. It is
really<BR>> nice<BR>> > >looking and has an original =
finished look
about it. The trick is in the<BR>> > >"fixture" needed to do =
all the
drilling.<BR>> > >Best Regards,<BR>> > >Joe Garrett, =
RPT,
(Oregon)<BR>> ><BR>> > I've done this with 1/2" plugs and =
veneer
overlay. Drilled with the same<BR>> > setup I normally use =
drilling
pinblocks in the piano.<BR>> ><BR>> > Ron N<BR>> <BR>> =
<BR>> Joe & Ron,<BR>> <BR>> I've pretty much resisted doing =
this
through the whole block simply because<BR>> I don't trust the =
structural
integrity of the resultant plug/glue/epoxy<BR>> mass. Given the =
vagaries of
wood expansion and contraction with climate<BR>> changes, just how =
stable is
this some-unpredictable mass going to be over,<BR>> say, 30 or 40 =
years. I've
examined several of these jobs done by others<BR>> after just a =
couple of
years and have always been able to see at least some<BR>> =
print-through image
of the plugs on the veneer face. It's made me wonder<BR>> just what =
is going
on down there.<BR>> <BR>> Del<BR>> <BR>>
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