<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1264" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: = #ffffff" bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT size=3>That's exactly what I have done as wel Dave. = Approach also from Del. Works great. That way also, when rescaling, you are = not restricted by the original speaking lengths and bridge = shape.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=davidlovepianos@earthlink.net href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">David Love</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, October 24, 2003 = 6:26 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Make a soundboard--Measurements</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">The bridge I just did I ended up = laying out from scratch rather than trying to follow a pattern, an idea I got = from Del Fandrich.   I found this to be easier and more accurate since I = was rescaling and making slight alterations to the speaking = lengths.  It also allows you to avoid duplicating mistakes on the previous = layout.  The method I used was to first mark on the plate the center string = locations on each hitch pin.  I used a dummy tuning pin with a string = attached (Mazzaglia) which I put into the center tuning pin hole on the plate = and wrapped the string around the corresponding hitch pin.   = Eyeball the string in a straight line through the capo (or from the agraffe) and = over the bridge and make a pencil mark right under the string on the front and = back of the bridge.  Take a small straightedge and draw a line, move to = the next one.  When you are done look at the overall spacing and make any = co! rrections to get it looking even.  From there measure your = speaking lengths and mark on the line the front center pin location.  = Using one of several three hole punches I also got from Mazzaglia (depending on = spacing), mark you pin locations.  Measure from the front row to the = back row at whatever pin spacing you are using and mark the back row center = pin.  Using the three hole punch, mark the back row.  At that point, if = you are going to paint graphite on the bridge to, do it then, it makes it much = easier to see where you are notching if your eyes aren't as sharp as they = once were, like mine.  Drill your bridge pin holes.  Then mark the side = of the notch at 90+ degrees (whatever you use, I use 93) off the = front pin line.  I use a small piece of mylar cut at the proper angles = which a lay along the pin line.  Look over your markings to see that they are = evenly spaced.  Cut along the line with a small saw to unif! orm depth = (don't overshoot the hole, use a chisel for that last bit).  Then cut = your notches.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">I've gone beyond my point a bit, but = I found that laying out the bridge from scratch eliminated worrying about how = precise the pattern was and trying to copy it.  I still make the pattern = because it gives me the location for screws in the top of the bridge when I am = gluing down the new cap (on an old board), and lets me know generally where I = should cut my bearing points, and out of habit.  But laying out new gave = me better results and it may even have been faster.  </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif"></FONT> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV>David Love</DIV> <DIV><A = href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">davidlovepianos@earthlink.n= et</A></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=Erwinspiano@aol.com = href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com"></A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A></DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 10/24/2003 8:37:18 AM = </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Make a soundboard--Measurements</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT size=2> <DIV> <DIV>In a message dated 10/23/2003 11:19:33 AM Pacific Daylight = Time, michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk writes:</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px = solid"><FONT face=Arial>Hello RicB<BR>It would be very important to set down = the criteria for measurement of<BR>soundboards. That must be the = starting point. If everyone who wants to<BR>partake in this research takes = all the stipulated points for measurements<BR>then there might be some = realistic steps taken. Be sure to make the names of<BR>these points international!..;-)<BR>Regards<BR>Michael G (UK)<BR>----- </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" = color=#000040>     <FONT size=3><STRONG>Michael, Ric = Glenn</STRONG></FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3><STRONG>   Well, Michael, I don't know if you'd call it research. List you = proposed on measuring things & observations are really = probably already outlined in the journal & are just some of the = measurements all soundboard installers use. </STRONG></FONT></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  I.E. Measuring string heights, Plate height, bass & treble 88, mark = the front corner of the plate & measure the distance fore & aft in mm = to the case side. These locate the plate. Note any odd things about the = bridges. I.E. inadequate side bearings, strings not going straight to the = hitch pins, funky notching angels you don't wish to duplicate. Measure down to = the top of the plate at the bosses. This allows you to set the height of you = dowels later if you use them.</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  Measure the string scale. If funky after unstringing measure string = lengths & crunch the no.s. Often note 88 is too short for decent = tensions in the last section. You may want to move the bridge as on many older 1800s = S&S grands.</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>   Note the angle of the bridge top to the board. I don't often do this = but every piece of info can be helpful.</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>   (Observation)Look at the thickness of the board thru the action = cavity at the belly rail & see how it tapers. (Mental = note)</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  Observation) Any crown left any bearing left. Does the bearing = string still touch the bridge now the strings are removed. is the bridge below = the string plane?</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  Pull the plate. Pull the bridge pins. make a GOOD pattern noting hole = side notch cut. Use a bridge pin bit drilled straight down thru the bridge to = locate the mylar pattern. Place mylar (I use 10 mil) over bridge and tap = no. 6 pin thru mylar. It make a cleaner hole than drilling thru it.</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  I always measure at least first and last string lengths on the = long bridge & bass bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>   Very important: Bridge location markers.</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>   I do this 2 ways. I drill straight down. straight is very important = thru the top of the bridge at not 88 with a 3/16 bit and thru the board & = into the belly rail. This will help locate the top of the bridge very = precisely. I also do the same in the tenor end, drilling into a beam if = possible. I also take direct measurements with a metric ruler to the side of the = case at each end of each bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  I also measure the distance from the no. 88  bridge pin hole to the = side of the case & stretcher. This eliminates the possibility of getting = pattern located  wrong. There are other ways. Rebuilders please chime in.</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>   Drill out dowels remove treble cap screws. Now the fun part. It's = time to knock the board out</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>   Any body tired yet? More later. going to work</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  Later--Dale</FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3>  </FONT></STRONG></DIV> <DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 = size=3></FONT></STRONG> </DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></B= ODY></HTML>