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<font size=3>Dale,<br><br>
I worked with one of these in the 80s, and the case sides are built up
over the pinblock, and the case side covers a large bolt that goes down
through the pinblock into the front extensions of the rim. Get some
nice veneer that matches before you begin!<br><br>
The stretcher design is very strong, so don't approach this as if the
design is flawed, only that the piece of wood that this stretcher was
made from had a problem. Your idea of using pinblock wood is fine,
but getting a nice veneer over the edge of fine laminations can be a
problem.<br><br>
Good luck!<br><br>
Don<br><br>
At 05:25 PM 5/21/2005, you wrote:<br>
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Friends<br>
I'm considering rebuilding another of these old rosewood monsters
for an influential client. The only hesitation I have ( well not the only
one) is that the front of the stretcher has a crack in it and the whole
of the stretcher cap piece is bowed up about 1/8th of an inch and
has a corresponding separation between the lower portion which is the pin
block. The piano IS designed for A-440 & is currently stable. It has
an open face angled block with the plate that does not incapsulate
it<br>
The crack in the strecher, the tension at 440 , & the
pitch has been stable for the ten years & holds tune. I've known the
piano. I hate to work on it because it needs everything xcept a finish
& it sound crappy. <br>
My thought is to beef up the stretcher by replacing it with
something like falconwood instead of plain maple and really anchor it to
the pinblock section below via thru bolts & then re venneer the whole
shootin match.. This is a massive & large cap type stretcher.
One end is about 10 to 12 inches wide on top and tapers down to 4 or so
in the bass.<br>
I know we've had some discussion on this before & am open to
imput & suggestions on this baby.<br>
Has any one had the whole of the stretcher /pinblock assembly out
in one piece or in pieces or any other retrofit repair or constuction
that would be helpful in this regard.<br>
Thanks in advance <br>
Dale Erwin<br>
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