<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial" bottomMargin=7 bgColor=#ffffff leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 = rightMargin=7> <DIV><FONT size=3>Thanks Ron. There goes my good custom pinblock customer.....   ;-)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Actually, I was thinking of trying that approach = also on my next block.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Hey, BTW, I can cap a multi-lam pinblock also - with = any thickness cap.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.farrellpiano.com"><FONT size=3>www.farrellpiano.com</FONT></A></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=Erwinspiano@aol.com href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, October 06, = 2004 11:04 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Drill bit size for = #1 gauge tuning pins</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 = size=2> <DIV> <DIV> <FONT size=3>  Ron</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>   By the way</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  Your thoughts & method on the capping = rotary blocks makes a whole lot a farm boy sense. I'm gonna try it. A 2 3/8' = pin is only going to end up with half its length in actual wood (well = depending flange thickness)  Which means the portion  in the wood = has about equal parts in botht he 15/32" & then delignit cap & = rotary cut maple.. ahh very slick I get it.  what drill diameter does this = set up like to bore at?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  I'll send the leftover cash right = away</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>   Thanks</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  Dale</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px = solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 = size=2>That's no different from the quarter sawn blocks. They self destruct under <BR>extreme conditions too. The only disasters I've seen from the = cheap blocks <BR>(assuming competent installation in the first place) were = in school systems <BR>with steam heat where the RH% went from over 75% = in the summer, to under <BR>20% in the winter. In fact, that's one of the = reasons I originally went to <BR>Delignit many years ago. The multi-lams = tended to be snappy if they were <BR>drilled tight enough to hold up under = climatic abuse. The Delignit will do <BR>that too, but the double drilling = helps that, which is one of the reasons I <BR>developed the process. The = problem (among other things) is that the bottom <BR>of the hole is as tight = as the top of the hole, and it doesn't need to be. <BR>There's almost no = string induced stress on the pin and block at the bottom <BR>of the pin, so = the bottom half of the block serves mostly to keep the pin <BR>pointed = in the right direction, and supply the snap of jumpy pins when it <BR>gets = the chance. A low density block capped with the Delignit bridge = <BR>capping stock changes the torque gradient down the pin, and lets the bottom <BR>catch up with the top without kicking the top loose and = snapping. Again, <BR>this works with both the $75, and the $315 low density block. It = is my <BR>expectation that, since the majority of the tension and leverage = is <BR>supported by the much tougher capping, the underlying block is = under <BR>considerably less load than if it were doing all the work = itself, and won't <BR>deteriorate nearly as badly or as quickly under climate = extremes as a <BR>result. Lower compression levels ought to mean less = compression set. That's <BR>the theory, anyway, and that makes the expensive = block a waste of money and <BR>good wood. I like it so far, but I'll let you = know in 20 years or so how it <BR>works out in long term = practice.<BR><BR>Ron N</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>