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<DIV>Hello Dale</DIV>
<DIV>Just returned from my mini-marathon Harpsichord tuning - two =
Harpsichords
in 10 minutes tonight - Emanuelle took the opera so slow they had to =
make up the
deficit by cutting down the interval time. Yuk!
And one Harpsichord had gone up to A=445 so had to =
bring it down
AND check the Conductors' Harpsichord as well. Now that's shifting it =
I'd
say!</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks for the info on soundboard measurement proceedure. I'm =
tired
already. Look forward to the next exciting instalment but have signed =
myself off
this site for a week since we're away on holiday as from today =
;-)</DIV>
<DIV>Regards</DIV>
<DIV>Michael G (UK)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=Erwinspiano@aol.com
href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, October 24, 2003 4:37 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Make a soundboard--Measurements</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 10/23/2003 11:19:33 AM Pacific Daylight Time, <A =
href="mailto:michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk">michael@gambles.fsnet.co.uk</=
A>
writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px =
solid"><FONT
face=Arial>Hello RicB<BR>It would be very important to set down the =
criteria
for measurement of<BR>soundboards. That must be the starting point. If =
everyone who wants to<BR>partake in this research takes all the =
stipulated
points for measurements<BR>then there might be some realistic steps =
taken. Be
sure to make the names of<BR>these points
international!..;-)<BR>Regards<BR>Michael G (UK)<BR>-----
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" =
color=#000040> <FONT
size=3><STRONG>Michael, Ric Glenn</STRONG></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3><STRONG>
Well, Michael, I don't know if you'd call it research. List you
proposed on measuring things & observations are really probably =
already
outlined in the journal & are just some of the measurements all =
soundboard
installers use. </STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> I.E.
Measuring string heights, Plate height, bass & treble 88, mark the =
front
corner of the plate & measure the distance fore & aft in mm to =
the case
side. These locate the plate. Note any odd things about the bridges. =
I.E.
inadequate side bearings, strings not going straight to the hitch pins, =
funky
notching angels you don't wish to duplicate. Measure down to the top of =
the
plate at the bosses. This allows you to set the height of you dowels =
later if
you use them.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> Measure
the string scale. If funky after unstringing measure string lengths =
& crunch
the no.s. Often note 88 is too short for decent tensions in the last =
section.
You may want to move the bridge as on many older 1800s S&S
grands.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> Note
the angle of the bridge top to the board. I don't often do this but =
every piece
of info can be helpful.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3>
(Observation)Look at the thickness of the board thru the action cavity =
at the
belly rail & see how it tapers. (Mental note)</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3>
Observation) Any crown left any bearing left. Does the bearing string =
still
touch the bridge now the strings are removed. is the bridge below the =
string
plane?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> Pull the
plate. Pull the bridge pins. make a GOOD pattern noting hole side notch =
cut. Use
a bridge pin bit drilled straight down thru the bridge to locate the =
mylar
pattern. Place mylar (I use 10 mil) over bridge and tap no. 6 pin thru =
mylar. It
make a cleaner hole than drilling thru it.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> I always
measure at least first and last string lengths on the long bridge =
&
bass bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> Very
important: Bridge location markers.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> I do
this 2 ways. I drill straight down. straight is very important thru the =
top of
the bridge at not 88 with a 3/16 bit and thru the board & into the =
belly
rail. This will help locate the top of the bridge very precisely. I also =
do the
same in the tenor end, drilling into a beam if possible. I also take =
direct
measurements with a metric ruler to the side of the case at each end of =
each
bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> I also
measure the distance from the no. 88 bridge pin hole to the side =
of the
case & stretcher. This eliminates the possibility of getting pattern =
located wrong. There are other ways. Rebuilders please chime
in.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3>
Drill out dowels remove treble cap screws. Now the fun part. It's time =
to knock
the board out</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3> Any
body tired yet? More later. going to work</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3>
Later--Dale</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 =
size=3>
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040
size=3></FONT></STRONG> </DIV></BODY></HTML>