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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca" =
title=baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>Roger
Jolly</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"
title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, October 22, 1999 =
4:44
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Damper =
Flanges?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Hi
=
John,<BR> &nbs=
p;
I've run into the same problem.<BR>Here is how I solved the
problem.<BR><BR>Take off the top damper and remove the flange. Use as =
a
template.<BR>Take the new flange and mark the forward position of the =
slot to
coincide with the sample.<BR>Use a Japanese pull saw to make a cut in =
the
required position.<BR>Chip out the excess wood.<BR>You may have to =
shorten the
overall length of the flange on a disc sander. (a =
probability)<BR>secondly you
may have to elongate the flange screw hole.(another =
probability)<BR>When
reinstalling the flange, it will want to twist since the slot is there =
to hold
it in position, so apply some pressure to evenly push the flange back =
into the
action when tightening the flange screw.<BR>Make good and sure that =
the lever
is square with the ones beside it, and has not twisted.<BR>When you =
can not
get matching replacement parts, you are between a rock and a hard =
place so
improvise.<BR>Regards Roger</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>For twisting flanges, you could try a strip of say 180 grit =
sandpaper,
glued along the rail beside the screw holes. I've tried this =
successfully in
the past. Otherwise it seems to be as you suggest, adapt the damper =
flanges to
fit.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Graeme Harvey<BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>