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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Hi Jim,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>You remove the old wire, and clean out the old
glue from the slot. Now you have a hole to put the replacement wire in. I always
had a problem getting the wire to lie in this slot. If the wire has broken
off flush, I have used a Dremel tool and small bit, and it will either push tho
old piece of wire out, or make a hole next to it.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial> Drill a hole at the other end of the slot,
the same size as the one that is already there. Feed the end of the wire down
the original hole, along the slot and into the other hole. When you grab the end
and pull, it lines the wire up snugly in the hole, you clip off the end
and glue the felt over the slots as it was. The wire stays in place, not
depending on glue.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Be sure to protect the coils and their
alignment, using welding rod as mentioned below.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>If it is still unclear, I could make a drawing
(simple) and scan it.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Regards,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jdally@ecr.net href="mailto:jdally@ecr.net">JAMES DALLY</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, December 14, 2003 6:11
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Hammer Spring Rail and
plastic action parts question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=4>John: Could you more fully explain
the procedure you oulined. Thanks Jim Dally</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">John
Ross</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, December 13, 2003 7:37
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Hammer Spring Rail and
plastic action parts question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>When installing the new hammer rail springs, I
have found that drilling an extra hole for the spring, and installing it
like a French butt spring, keeps the wire in the slot. Also make sure that
you use a piece of welding rod, in the coil when bending for tension, saves
from deforming the coil.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I used to get the old wire out, put in the new
wire, and try to bend it into the slot with a pair of pliers I modified, but
I could never get it to lie fully in the slot.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I think it was Brian Lawson, or Jon Page that
suggested this method to me.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Regards,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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