Hi Ed, Looks like I may be the first to stick my neck out on this. I don't know the laminate thicknesses and lengths involved, but is it possible you could use the same materials and technique that works for veneering? It can't hurt to experiment on non-critical materials of similar dimensions. Spread Titebond evenly, preferably with a roller, on the laminate surface. Allow no voids or gaps, including at the edges of the material, and deliberately allow it to dry. Then use heat to reactivate the glue. The ideal heat applicator is an aluminum cylinder or other metal roller that's heated -- by resting on an upside-down clothes iron, or a variation of this theme if any exotic curves/bends are involved. If this works, you'll be working in 'familiar' turf, and it could save you some time and grief, instead of tooling up with more exotic glues -- especially two-part, hi-freq, and so on. I've either not experienced yellow glue failing under tension, or am not interpreting the statement right. I suppose anything will fail given the right circumstances. Pinblocks loose from the liner come to mind. If this doesn't work, at least it'll provide ammunition for others to flame me! <g> At 05:28 PM 9/27/99 -1300, you wrote: >Dear List: > I'm preparing to laminate a bentside for a harpsichord. I'm uncertain >as to what kind of glue to use. It will need a rather long open time to be >spread on the surfaces. When dry it shouldn't creep under tension. I use hot >glue for action work, but have never used it for projects where it needed to be >modified to stay open long. I've seen yellow glue fail under constant tension. > Just to add to the fun, the job is scheduled for next week, but could >be delayed if I can't get the glue in time. > Perhaps some people on the list have some comparable glue experiences >and can help with ideas. > Thank you. > Ed Sutton > musutton@alpha.nlu.edu Jim Harvey, RPT Greenwood, SC harvey@greenwood.net ________________________ -- someone who's been in the field too long.
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