Just one quick suggestion: Glue in the wood shims with epoxy. Covers the gap problem, but minimizes amount of epoxy. (When I use epoxy, I like to open the crack the bare minimum to be able to get the epoxy into it - but that's another story). FWIW, I can tell no aural difference whatsoever between wood shims and epoxy. Prefer wood mostly for aesthetic and sentimental reasons, but where time and money are at a premium, epoxy is just fine. Fred Sturm University of New Mexico Greg Newell wrote: > > Dear Lists, > I've got trouble. I just started using the sound board router system > the venerable Mr. Bill Spurlock sells. I don't like it! Maybe it's just > me but I can't get a handle on how to affix a rail to the crowned sound > board. I would be easier if the board was flat bu then I'd be replacing > it not shimming it. I've always been taught that a glue joint is only as > good as the mating surfaces. I have several small gaps in various places > and I've gone as wide as I dare with the shims that I have. Kind of like > the wobbly chair syndrome. I've never had a router bit cut so poorly, > chattering and pulling like it did. > I am gluing the shim in now with as much of the gaps minimized as > possible but I'm finicky. I'd rather not see any at all. I think I'll > switch gears here and try the epoxy method. Would any of you be so kind > as to detail this method to me along with the product you use and your > results with it. Before the forum police come to get me, I know this has > been posted before. Nevertheless I'd appreciate a complete approach if > any of you are so inclined. > Thanks a bunch! You all are the best!!!! > > Greg > -- > Greg Newell > Greg's Piano Forté > 12970 Harlon Ave. > Lakewood, Ohio 44107 > 216-226-3791 > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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