Soundboard shims via Spurlok method

[Robert Edwardsen]

Tim,

Is the Wood Rebuilder the type the Ruth and Webb Phillips sell?

Rob Edwardsen

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Coates" <tcoates@dtgnet.com>
To: <caut@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 1904 4:23 AM
Subject: Re: Soundboard shims via Spurlok method


As I remember these were the only problems I encountered with this system.
The thick double back tape for hanging pictures made by 3M is the best.  As
with routing any wood, one must work in a certain direction with the grain
of
the wood.

For the last 5 years I have used Wood Rebuilder with powder stain (mix of
white and pine) and finished the board with water based lacquer sponge
brushed on.  Water based lacquer doesn't change the color of the wood when
applied.  So, it is easy to get a good color match.  Wood Rebuilder dries in
15 minutes and you can make it any consistency you wish.  After drying the
board down, I can repair it in one hour, and start scrapping it.

I did like the Spurlock method, but it is too labor intensive (as any
shimming method is in my opinion) when I can get better results with Wood
Rebuilder.

I have never used Epoxy, but it seems to be messy and requires time for the
epoxy to dry.

Tim Coates
University of South Dakota

Joe & Penny Goss wrote:

> Greg, If your bit chattered it may have been the direction that you moved
> the tool.
> The thick tacky tape that I use makes up for the crown.
> Joe Goss
> imatunr@srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
> To: "Pianotech forum" <pianotech@ptg.org>; "Master Piano Tech"
> <mpt@talklist.com>; "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 1:58 PM
> Subject: Soundboard shims via Spurlok method
>
> > Dear Lists,
> >     I've got trouble. I just started using the sound board router system
> > the venerable Mr. Bill Spurlock sells. I don't like it! Maybe it's just
> > me but I can't get a handle on how to affix a rail to the crowned sound
> > board. I would be easier if the board was flat bu then I'd be replacing
> > it not shimming it. I've always been taught that a glue joint is only as
> > good as the mating surfaces. I have several small gaps in various places
> > and I've gone as wide as I dare with the shims that I have. Kind of like
> > the wobbly chair syndrome. I've never had a router bit cut so poorly,
> > chattering and pulling like it did.
> >     I am gluing the shim in now with as much of the gaps minimized as
> > possible but I'm finicky. I'd rather not see any at all. I think I'll
> > switch gears here and try the epoxy method. Would any of you be so kind
> > as to detail this method to me along with the product you use and your
> > results with it. Before the forum police come to get me, I know this has
> > been posted before. Nevertheless I'd appreciate a complete approach if
> > any of you are so inclined.
> >     Thanks a bunch! You all are the best!!!!
> >
> > Greg
> > --
> > Greg Newell
> > Greg's Piano Forté
> > 12970 Harlon Ave.
> > Lakewood, Ohio 44107
> > 216-226-3791
> > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> >