Soundboard shims via Spurlok method

[TCoates]

First, my apologies for the clock problem again.  I was using my wife's iBook
again and checked the clock before I sent the last post.  Something is
strange.  I will start sending posts to myself to find the problem before I
post from her computer again.  It has fresh batteries and says it has the
correct date.

The Wood Rebuilder comes from Webb Phillips.  I use it for many repairs.
Soundboard work is only one use.  I know many of you don't have to do in home
work, but broken screw hole areas on console and spinet music racks are a sure
fix with this compound.

Tim Coates
University of South Dakota



Robert Edwardsen wrote:

> Tim,
>
> Is the Wood Rebuilder the type the Ruth and Webb Phillips sell?
>
> Rob Edwardsen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Coates" <tcoates@dtgnet.com>
> To: <caut@ptg.org>
> Sent: Friday, January 01, 1904 4:23 AM
> Subject: Re: Soundboard shims via Spurlok method
>
> As I remember these were the only problems I encountered with this system.
> The thick double back tape for hanging pictures made by 3M is the best.  As
> with routing any wood, one must work in a certain direction with the grain
> of
> the wood.
>
> For the last 5 years I have used Wood Rebuilder with powder stain (mix of
> white and pine) and finished the board with water based lacquer sponge
> brushed on.  Water based lacquer doesn't change the color of the wood when
> applied.  So, it is easy to get a good color match.  Wood Rebuilder dries in
> 15 minutes and you can make it any consistency you wish.  After drying the
> board down, I can repair it in one hour, and start scrapping it.
>
> I did like the Spurlock method, but it is too labor intensive (as any
> shimming method is in my opinion) when I can get better results with Wood
> Rebuilder.
>
> I have never used Epoxy, but it seems to be messy and requires time for the
> epoxy to dry.
>
> Tim Coates
> University of South Dakota
>
> Joe & Penny Goss wrote:
>
> > Greg, If your bit chattered it may have been the direction that you moved
> > the tool.
> > The thick tacky tape that I use makes up for the crown.
> > Joe Goss
> > imatunr@srvinet.com
> > www.mothergoosetools.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Greg Newell" <gnewell@ameritech.net>
> > To: "Pianotech forum" <pianotech@ptg.org>; "Master Piano Tech"
> > <mpt@talklist.com>; "College and University Technicians" <caut@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 1:58 PM
> > Subject: Soundboard shims via Spurlok method
> >
> > > Dear Lists,
> > >     I've got trouble. I just started using the sound board router system
> > > the venerable Mr. Bill Spurlock sells. I don't like it! Maybe it's just
> > > me but I can't get a handle on how to affix a rail to the crowned sound
> > > board. I would be easier if the board was flat bu then I'd be replacing
> > > it not shimming it. I've always been taught that a glue joint is only as
> > > good as the mating surfaces. I have several small gaps in various places
> > > and I've gone as wide as I dare with the shims that I have. Kind of like
> > > the wobbly chair syndrome. I've never had a router bit cut so poorly,
> > > chattering and pulling like it did.
> > >     I am gluing the shim in now with as much of the gaps minimized as
> > > possible but I'm finicky. I'd rather not see any at all. I think I'll
> > > switch gears here and try the epoxy method. Would any of you be so kind
> > > as to detail this method to me along with the product you use and your
> > > results with it. Before the forum police come to get me, I know this has
> > > been posted before. Nevertheless I'd appreciate a complete approach if
> > > any of you are so inclined.
> > >     Thanks a bunch! You all are the best!!!!
> > >
> > > Greg
> > > --
> > > Greg Newell
> > > Greg's Piano Forté
> > > 12970 Harlon Ave.
> > > Lakewood, Ohio 44107
> > > 216-226-3791
> > > mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
> > >