annealing brass; THANKS!

[Tim Coates]

Mark,

If you are going to disassemble the action to put the rail in an oven, I would
replace the butt-plates.  I repair brass actions to make the piano limp along
until another piano is purchased.  Half the time the butt-plate is the
culprit.  Yes, a much easier repair.  But if you have the action apart I'd
replace those butt-plates.

Tim Coates
University of South Dakota
University of Sioux Falls

Mark Cramer wrote:

> Thanks for all the informative replys.
>
> The instrument is a Heintzman upright, a Canadian maker we are particularly
> fond of.
>
> In past I have converted these actions to Renner butts, with most satisfying
> results. In this instance I offered the client a choice, and wouldn't ya
> know it,...
>
> The rails are fine, the butt-plates all original and it will probably be
> okay. The idea of providing an "ounce of prevention" in the oven is
> appealing. Going beyond this, as suggested, may not be merited.
>
> As always, many thanks!
>
> Mark Cramer,
> Brandon University
>
> What type of piano are you doing this type of treatment to?  Uprights,
> grands?  Is
> it worth it?  Around here uprights are a dime a dozen and hardly worth going
> to
> this much work.
>
> Tim Coates
> University of South Dakota
> University of Sioux Falls
>
> Daniel Gurnee wrote:
>
> > on 11/25/01 9:00 PM, Daniel Gurnee at dgurnee@humboldt1.com wrote:
> >
> > CAUT
> >
> > Addendum to my last: Annealing brass, two sources.
> >
> > ŒANNEALING PROCEDURE1
> > ŒHeat to dull red color, let cool to a grey color, immediately quench in
> > water or picking solution.2
> > 3The Jeweler1s Bench Reference2 by Harold O1Connor,  Pub. Dunconor book,
> 4th
> > printing 1982
> >
> > ANNEALING:
> > 3This can be done with a kiln or torch. Colors are best seen in a
> dimly-lit
> > area. Handy flux may be painted onto metal to serve as a temperature
> > indicator: it is clear at 1100° F.  . .   Œ
> > 3The Complete Metalsmith2, Tim McCreight, Pub. Davis Publications, Mass.,
> > 1982.
> >
> > Dan Gurnee, RPT, Ret. HSU.
> >
> > > Greetings CAUT,
> > >
> > > Learning from the HSU Art Dept. and Hobart Brown renowned for initiating
> the
> > > Kinetic Sculptor Race at Ferndale CA, to totally aneal work hardened
> copper
> > > and brass, heat to glowing red and quench in cold water.
> > >
> > > Dan Gurnee RPT, Retired from HSU
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > on 11/25/01 5:45 PM, Bdshull@aol.com at Bdshull@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hi, Mark,
> > >>
> > >> A few months ago I decided to try the oven.  I put the rails and good
> butt
> > >> plates in the oven for an hour at full blast ("broil"), turned the oven
> off
> > >> and left in overnight to cool (slow cooling...).  The butt plates were
> very
> > >> bendable, unlike before - I could not break them.  I have done it on
> two
> > >> action rails with the same results.  I am not sure of the exact
> temperature,
> > >> but I believe the temperature needs to exceed 650 degrees.
> > >>
> > >> Of course it is more scientific to use the crayons. The heat-sensitive
> > >> crayons are a precise indicator of the temperature.  But I am pleased
> with
> > >> the results of my oven.  Don't know how many times it can manage full
> heat
> > >> for an hour, but it seemed to do OK.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Bill Shull, RPT
> > >> La Sierra University, CSUSB
> > >>
> > >> In a message dated 11/25/01 1:00:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > >> cramer@BrandonU.CA writes:
> > >>
> > >> << I recall a discussion about annealing brass-flange rails in the
> oven.
> > >> Someone may have even taught a class on this subject.
> > >>
> > >> Can someone please help me out with the particulars?
> > >>
> > >> thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Mark Cramer, >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >