Moving knuckles

[Mark Cramer]

Alan,

I have a jig "keyed" to the slot of my table-saw for custom trimming
flange-lengths.

It is a fairly simply affair with a toggle clamp, and a cross table with
slot/strip and wing-nut for calibration. I think it would do just fine...
with the correct saw blade of course.

(sorry, have no pics)

Mark Cramer,
Brandon University




-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of
Fred Sturm
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 9:00 AM
To: College and University Technicians
Subject: Re: Moving knuckles


--On Monday, July 19, 2004 9:18 PM -0400 Erwinspiano@aol.com wrote:

>     Alan
>   Funny you should ask. I started a similar thread earlier this month on
> p- Tech. Check the Archives. However just today I received a jig built by
> fellow Tech Roland Kaplan for doing this very job. It uses a table saw
> blade of correct thickness for the knuckle slot. We cut off the old ones
> in a band saw.(15 min). I'll be using the jig sometime soon and post back
> on the p-tech list. I also have a router bit purchased to cut the slot
> when Roland offered to loan me his set up. If I don't like it I will try
> the router.    I have many sets of near new salvaged Renner parts off
> jobs calibrated incorrectly. Mostly Stwy & mostly the 15.5 knuckle
> position which works poorly in most cases.    So far it's not a case of I
> want to recycle the hammers as most are Renner & I don't use them. But  I
> just can't throw out 400 worth of shanks. Know What I mean?     Regards
>    Dale Erwin
>
Hi Alan,
	FWIW, I've attended classes by Richard Davenport and by Nick Gravagne
where each described (with slides) moving a set of knuckles with Kaplan's
jig (and various incarnations thereof - it's a work in progress). Seemed
like a very straightforward operation, with minimal chance for failure
(assuming careful set-up, which seemed not to be all that hard). Kaplan has
experimented with various available table saw blades, and has come up with
three or four that cut precisely the width of various brands of knuckle
(cores widths vary from Abel to whatever).
	The process is to cut the knuckle off flush to the shank (leaving the core
that is in the slot), apply thin CA to solidify/glue this remaining wood in
the slot, then run the shanks through the table saw in the jig to cut the
new location. As Richard and Nick described it, this was not terribly
time-consuming, or fingernail-biting. Nick had brought along a jig (a
different incarnation from what he showed in the slides), and it looked
quite elegant. I could see where one could add a couple screw adjusters to
make set up a bit less time-consuming, but it looked pretty good as is.
	I would definitely think this would be a better bet than router table
(less noisy, for one). The caveat is that I've never done it myself.
Regards,
Fred Sturm
University of New Mexico
>
>
>   Hi folks,
>
> I have a situation here where instead of replacing shanks, I am going to
> use the not-so-old shanks and move the knuckles out to 17mm. The knuckles
> are really not all that worn so instead of band sawing them off I am
> thinking of just pulling them off and moving them (if that diameter will
> work in the new position). Then I'll glue in a piece of hardwood to fill
> the old slot and cut a new slot. I'm thinking that I'd prefer routing out
> the new slot but I'd like to hear some thoughts from others who have done
> this operation before.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Alan McCoy, RPT
> Eastern Washington U
>
>
>
> Erwins Pianos Restorations
> 4721 Parker Rd.
> Modesto, Ca 95357
> 209-577-8397
> Rebuilt Steinway , Mason &Hamlin Sales
> www.Erwinspiano.com


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