Hello Margaret, Thursday, March 4, 2004, 11:38:06 AM, you wrote: CEH> About the repair suggestions by Mr Kuerti, not all of them CEH> are entirely bad. It is commonly advised to burnish rather than CEH> file the balance & front pin holes by restorers and those dealing CEH> with reproduction early keyboards. The tightness here (except CEH> maybe in cheap new pianos with poor keyboard wood) is often CEH> humidity caused, and to actually remove wood with a file is CEH> inviting looseness later. I'd think the heavier the keys, like CEH> modern piano keys, the more problem this would be. I think CEH> European technicians are taught to burnish (an awl works as well CEH> as anything). This presumes the keys are fitted and eased CEH> properly at the factory, which is probably not true with many CEH> quickie spinets etc. But we're talking well-maintained concert CEH> pianos here I think. Margaret, I can't speak to all the repair suggestions, because I have yet to read either segment in entirety. Even then, I won't add more fuel to this. My post was more of a global caution to newer technicians about the use of dated material, -not- one of challenging the author or the article's contents line by line. I hate to think what will be made of my articles -- and posts like this -- after 30 years, but it will probably be something like "Who was this Harvey idiot, and at what point did he fall off the truck"? Likewise, I have no issue with your reply up to the point of 'an awl works as well as anything'. There is a reason why Yamaha's CF tool is used only by seasoned technicians in Japan (at least that's what Kenzo Utsinomiya[sp] once told me). There is also a reason for George D's method of using the Nicholson files with two opposing safe sides. One method is from the top, the other from the bottom. Neither method represents inserting a symmetrically round or perfectly conical shaped object into the key. Another example would include Jack Krefting's PTJ mention of using a balance rail pin of the same size as those currently in the action, and swedging (swaging for some of y'all), or hammering one end of the pin to a slightly out-of-round condition. That's three separate methods (so far) of accomplishing essentially the same end result, other conditions notwithstanding, and all tools feature the same feature in common... two relieved sides. If one diagnoses sluggishness as a result of balance hole friction and then closely observes the balance hole prior to applying [whatever] remedy, it will often be apparent that the hole has grown from round into an oval or 'egg' shape'. Usually the front to back portion of the hole will be okay, but the sides of the hole will have swollen, thus acting like a tiny vise against the key pin. The theory portion can be challenged, but deals with wood swelling/shrinking in the direction of grain, or some such. Don't want to go there, since I'm having a senility attack at the moment. Our objective, by whatever method, is to restore the hole back to round, allowing just enough margin that key motion is not influenced (restricted) by excessive friction. Whether this is due to the wood, manufacturing methods, or humidity is not our immediate focus (although they each have a bearing on the chosen corrective procedure). Unless I'm missing a trick, it occurs to me that if an awl (in the Biblical sense) is inserted into the balance hole (compression method), by the time the tool has penetrated far enough to alleviate friction on the sides, the -entire- hole has been enlarged. This not only defeats the objective, it reverses the original problem. I once witnessed this on a brand-new piano. The keys went from 'new' piano snug to pulley, sloppy, and rattling, all within the few minutes required to perform the operation. To reflect on Kenzo's wisdom, this is why they don't permit the newbies to use the CF tool with reckless abandon. Even though the CF tool has safe sides, the same kind of hole deformation could result from improper use of the tool, lack of tactile sensitivity, or my favorite... "If some is good, more must be better" attitude. Admittedly, none of this reply addresses the inside mortice of the balance hole, and therein lies the basis in support of burnishing versus filing. I could extend this wordy reply with comments on fitting and easing at the factory level, but will save that for another time. -- Regards, Jim mailto:harvey@greenwood.net
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