Steinway damper ringing problem

[Alan McCoy]

Another way to isolate sections is to use bean bags on top of a section of
dampers - make a couple, one for 20 and another for 26 bass.

Echo what Ed said about fore and aft alignment of damper heads. I often find
either the front or rear of a damper lifting earlier than the other end, but
best damping is usually gotten with a damper level with the string.

Thanks Ed for the damper wire thought. I hadn't noticed a rougher wire.
Different plating?

Alan McCoy 

-----Original Message-----
From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of
A440A@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 6:02 AM
To: caut@ptg.org
Subject: Re: Steinway damper ringing problem


Ron writes:

<< BTW, since this came up, there's something I've wondered for a long time.

How do techs who can't touch strings without corroding them change or splice
broken strings in field repairs? Do any of you folks carry gloves? >>

    Usually, the broken string is already covered in a patina of iron oxide,
and a little contact with the hand of Foote doesn't make any difference.  I
wear gloves when I tune, though.  It allows me to touch the strings without
fear of corroding them.  
    I do keep a small jar of soapstone in the stringing case for those times
when I am changing a string or replacing one.  A light dusting on the
fingers keeps the oils and acids busy until the string is in.  When
installing strings, I not only wash my hands first, but also wrap thin
masking tape around the fingers and keep a coating of talc on them while I
work.  Seems effective, judging by the lack of prints on the stringing jobs
I have done and continue to tune. 
Regards,
Ed Foote RPT
http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
 
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