On 5/31/05 5:08 PM, "Horace Greeley" <hgreeley@stanford.edu> wrote: > > Hi, Fred, > The problem with this solution is that both acetone and keytop is/are > transferred to the steel strings, where the acetone (virtually) instantly > accelerates whatever rust/scale build-up is already in progress. (It also > does a pretty good job of messing up whatever shift voicing may have been > present.) > > As to driving it "a wee bit below the surface"...unless the solution is too > strong to begin with, this argument fails on its premise. That is, if the > solution is sufficiently thin to avoid the "spicky clicky" sound to which > Susan refers, it is also sufficiently thin to have penetrated the hammer > more effectively and efficiently than any amount of "pounding" can > realistically be expected to produce. > > Sorry - this simply does not fly. > > Best. > > Horace Hi Horace, I dunno if it flies. Maybe it waddles, crawls, or just sits there, staring up at you with baleful eyes ;-). But at any rate, it is a procedure being taught by Eric Schandall, and as such might be considered current "official Steinway practice." Eric included this procedure as part of his new all day class on voicing - late afternoon class devoted to theory, listening to the dull piano, and finally applying lacquer. Next day, two to three periods of real time voicing, going through the entire piano doing shift and tre corde voicing. The class had its debut at CalState in 2004 (I was there), and has since been given several times, including at Nashville. I haven't used the keytop/pounding thing much, beyond a bit of experimentation, but it seems to be effective in reducing the need for needling following application of keytop. I'm puzzled by your assertion that it would lead to accelerated rusting of strings. I'm not a chemist, but from what I understand acetone is a petroleum distillate, and generally such hydrocarbons impede rust if anything. I shouldn't think it has any catalytic properties. At any rate, by the time those 7 seconds have passed, most of it has flashed or wicked into the felt. The amount transferred to the string would be miniscule. I agree that one needs to check and possibly adjust shift voicing afterwards. And any time you apply acetone and whatever with a needle dropper devise, it's going to wick into the between groove area to some extent. The only way to avoid affecting shift voicing is to apply only to the string grooves, by laying a dipped wire on that part of the hammer (as Charles Ball mentioned a while back), or dripping off a dipped wire (as Barbara Richmond suggested very recently - I haven't tried that, but it sounds like a great idea). But the pounding while shifting procedure does reduce that need. When using acetone as the vehicle, the rapid flash tends to "pull" the hardener material (lacquer, keytop, whatever) to the surface (or, at any rate, to lead to a greater buildup at the surface than elsewhere). This is also true when applying lacquer in general (or painting, for that matter) - there is a hard surface of lacquer on the surface of the hammer, with a sound that is quite apparent, and which is reduced dramatically by filing a very small bit of the surface away. Acetone seems to enhance that effect. My sense is that the pounding that Eric suggests is taking place at a moment when most of the flash has taken place, but the keytop material is still pliable. So you are flexing the individual hammer fibers that are becoming stiffened by the thin coating of material, and perhaps counteracting the flash effect of drawing that material to the surface. I'm not meaning to proselytize, just documenting what is being taught and done. Not my procedure, but it's lying in wait in the bag of tricks <g>. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico
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