Hi Wim, an easy stripped-screw repair for the "not a very good woodworker" is the cross-dowel repair: Drill through the hole from the side (use masking tape for a depth guide), knurl the dowel a bit, glue it in and saw it flush. Now you can drill through the side of the dowel, via the original screw hole, with a bit equal to or slightly larger than the root or shank (screw diameter, less the thread) of the wood screw. This repair presents the grain of the dowel in the correct orientation for strength, and usually provides just enough wood to hold a thread, in non-critical applications. I've often used hammer shanks to repair those doomed-to-fail end screw-holes on spinet/console music rests. (thanks to a PTJournal contributor) best regards, Mark Cramer Brandon University -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org]On Behalf Of Wimblees at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 11:32 AM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] front rail delemna In a message dated 3/8/2006 11:25:12 AM Central Standard Time, hoffsoco at luther.edu writes: I've routed out the slot area and lain in new wood to make a new tight slot. That way I don't confuse myself when I go to remove the keyslip. BTW, this one's also in a practice room... ;-} I thought about that, but I am not a very good woodworker. Wim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/caut.php/attachments/20060308/5cabcc22/attachment.html
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