Hi Don, I'm coming in a little late on this one, so pardon me if I missed some suggestions. In the insta-cure category, I stand the action on end, use the key-slip (for instance) to press all the levers away from the rod, then drizzle McLube all the way down the rod. You can see it travel down, and should allow it to dry before releasing. It offers a decent coating thickness and has been the one-timer for every situation I can think of. The long term repair is to replace the cloth... if it's glazed, or glue infused, the noise will return. Having been a travelin' man myself for a number of years can tell you it's not that big a deal to fit into the day's tuning schedule: 1.) Pack three thicknesses of action cloth (it's usually the "medium") , a cutting-mat, sharp blades etc. 2.) Begin at the client's home first thing, number and remove the levers, soaking each cloth at the glue joint as you go (wall-paper remover & syringe), and placing levers cloth-side "up." 3.) Make another pass with the soaking solution, and hopefully by the end of this rotation, they will begin to peel (unless it's a modern glue). Otherwise, go ahead to #5 and repeat the soak & peel test later. 4.) When the cloths are removed, use a scraper to clean the surface, then lay a Dampp-Chaser bar over the row of levers, at the glue lines and plug it in. (will reverse the flow of moisture into the wood by creating a gradient) 5.) Now you should be able to pre-cut your cloth, and head to your next tuning. After lunch, the levers should be quite dry and ready for glueing in the new cloth. Note: The cloth is glued at each end, but not in the middle, back of where the spoon contacts. (if it was, then you've discovered where the noise came from.:>) 6.) I would simply use some small spring clamps (Dollar store item) over each glue line and rotate them in leap-frog fashion as you go. Hint: In the shop we try get some "stretch" in the material, by glueing/clamping one end, allowing it to dry, then the other. (and this, only in the course of an action rebuilding) 7.) By the time the last section is in clamps you can begin re-installing the first ones. The other items include: 1.) Re-bushing the hangers; fit the cloth, size the new bushings with an alcohol-soaking, then when dry, coat the pins with Super-lube. (or other high-load synth. grease) 2.) Fine steel-wooling of the rod, followed by a heavy slip-coating (I use the grey-ish McLube spray, don't recall the number) 3.) Inspect the trapwork down to the pedal (save a 4 hour call back :>( This service should be easy to accomplish within two service calls (1.5 - 2 hours each), one in the morning and one in the afternoon, with plenty of time to get a few other tunings in. Much as I love tuning, many times I enjoyed the variety of one or two "non-tuning" service slots during a day-trip. Enjoy! Mark Cramer, Brandon University -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org]On Behalf Of Don Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 5:28 AM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: [CAUT] pedal squeal Hi Keith, It is not the hangers--the squeal is from the rod against each of the dampher levers. I've already burnished in telfon powder--which worked for a few months. At 09:20 AM 3/22/2006 -0800, you wrote: >Isolate the sound to those brackets that hold the rod or the lift felts. If it's the lift felts I would >try TFL 50 spray stuff. Replace the felt if the bracket is making the squeal. The pressure fron >the dampers may be pressuring the rod backagainst the action rail. > > >Keith > >On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 08:30:27, Don wrote >> Hi, >> >> It is the rod against the dampher lever felts. >> >> At 06:19 AM 3/22/2006 -0800, you wrote: >> >Usually it's not the rod itself as it doesn't go through the key bed but >> >comes in from the back so there is no guide bushing. Sometimes the punchings >> >that isolate the moving parts are worn and you can use a leather replacement >> >in stead of a balance rail punching. Tighten up things so the pedal doesn't >> >rub against the case. The lube that works is the protek grease. >> > >> >kpiano >> > >> >----- Original Message ----- >> >From: "Don" <pianotuna at yahoo.com> >> >To: "College and University Technicians" <caut at ptg.org> >> >Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 8:03 AM >> >Subject: [CAUT] pedal squeal >> > >> > >> >> Hi all, >> >> >> >> Has anyone had long term success with treating a squeal from the piano >> >> dampher lift rod (upright)? If so what was used? >> >> >> >> This is a teaching piano. Silence is golden. >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.P.T. >> >> Non calor sed umor est qui nobis incommodat >> >> >> >> mailto:pianotuna at yahoo.com http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ >> >> >> >> 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK, S4S 5G7 >> >> 306-539-0716 or 1-888-29t-uner >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >-- >> >No virus found in this incoming message. >> >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >> >Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.6/287 - Release Date: 3/21/2006 >> > >> > >> >> Regards, >> Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.P.T. >> Non calor sed umor est qui nobis incommodat >> >> mailto:pianotuna at yahoo.com http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ >> >> 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK, S4S 5G7 >> 306-539-0716 or 1-888-29t-uner > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.6/287 - Release Date: 3/21/2006 > > Regards, Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.P.T. Non calor sed umor est qui nobis incommodat mailto:pianotuna at yahoo.com http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK, S4S 5G7 306-539-0716 or 1-888-29t-uner
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