[CAUT] screw-y stuff

[Paul T Williams]

Or a strip of bubble-wrap around the entire building at various lid 
heights! ;>)
I like just "glue sizing" the hole with hardwood splinters and tight bond. 
 I've never had a problem with it and it's faster than drilling and 
plugging and it really works!

Just my 4 cents (inflation ya know!)

Paul





Douglas Wood <dew2 at u.washington.edu> 
Sent by: caut-bounces at ptg.org
12/10/2008 03:54 PM
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Re: [CAUT] screw-y stuff






You might give a thought to what part of the piano you'd like to repair 
the next time it's shoved too hard, and design the weak part to be one 
that's easy to repair. Often times the wood around the screw is the 
preferred item, in which case the 1/4 or 3/8 maple or birch plug is ideal. 
(The harder the wood, generally, the stronger it is, meaning it will fail 
at a higher force, doing more damage.)

Doug Wood


On Dec 9, 2008, at 8:40 AM, reggaepass at aol.com wrote:

List, 

With annual "Stripped Screw Hole Day" repidly approaching here at CalArts, 
I would appreciate recommendations for four different lid-related screw 
hole repairs on four different pianos.  

Yamaha C7E: screw holes of female (rim-mounted) lid locator hardware (torn 
out by repeated collisions between lid and immovable object, such as wall)

Baldwin F: lid hinge screw holes; the many short ones on the lid itself 
(ditto above cause for damage)

Steinway B: stripped out lock-bar screw holes (don't know how this 
happened)

Steinway D: screw holes in the flyleaf and lid, for the screws that fasten 
the long "piano" hinge (due to over-tightening and/or handling)

I was planning on installing delignit plugs in the rim of the Yamaha and 
glue-sizing (possibly with some non-glue material added) for the others.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Alan Eder
The Herb Alpert School of Music 
at CalArts

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Doug Wood
School of Music
University of Washington


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