[CAUT] screw-y stuff

[Douglas Wood]

You might give a thought to what part of the piano you'd like to  
repair the next time it's shoved too hard, and design the weak part  
to be one that's easy to repair. Often times the wood around the  
screw is the preferred item, in which case the 1/4 or 3/8 maple or  
birch plug is ideal. (The harder the wood, generally, the stronger it  
is, meaning it will fail at a higher force, doing more damage.)

Doug Wood


On Dec 9, 2008, at 8:40 AM, reggaepass at aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> With annual "Stripped Screw Hole Day" repidly approaching here at  
> CalArts, I would appreciate recommendations for four different lid- 
> related screw hole repairs on four different pianos.
>
> Yamaha C7E: screw holes of female (rim-mounted) lid locator  
> hardware (torn out by repeated collisions between lid and immovable  
> object, such as wall)
>
> Baldwin F: lid hinge screw holes; the many short ones on the lid  
> itself (ditto above cause for damage)
>
> Steinway B: stripped out lock-bar screw holes (don't know how this  
> happened)
>
> Steinway D: screw holes in the flyleaf and lid, for the screws that  
> fasten the long "piano" hinge (due to over-tightening and/or handling)
>
> I was planning on installing delignit plugs in the rim of the  
> Yamaha and glue-sizing (possibly with some non-glue material added)  
> for the others.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan Eder
> The Herb Alpert School of Music
> at CalArts
>
> Listen to 350+ music, sports, & news radio stations – including  
> songs for the holidays – FREE while you browse. Start Listening Now!

Doug Wood
School of Music
University of Washington

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut_ptg.org/attachments/20081210/6512ec64/attachment.html>