I hadn't thought of beveling that hole for that purpose. Makes sense though. Do you just use a countersink or some such tool or do you taper the entire hole with a tapered drill? David Love www.davidlovepianos.com -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Ron Nossaman Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 1:34 PM To: caut at ptg.org Subject: Re: [CAUT] glue/hammers It's interesting to me that so many techs are using Titebond's Molding glue for hammers. After so many years of hearing sworn testimony, often frothing, that a less than glass hard glue will kill hammer tone catastrophically, it pleases me to near no such negative claims about as soft a glue as this stuff is. There's a more plausible smell of reality about it. Alan, I suspect the pliability of the glue is at least somewhat responsible for the joints' durability under humidity extremes. I use hot hide, not for any believed magic tonal properties, but because I like the stuff and am comfortable working with it. Since I started (somewhere around 30 years ago) beveling the bore edge before gluing the hammers on, I haven't had a loose hammer with it. It seems that scraping the glue off the shank with a sharp edged hole in the hammer molding is counterproductive to good glue joints. Whooda thought? If you want a very quick set easy to work cold glue that dries crispy hard, try some of WN&G's glue. It's Franklin's Assembly 65. Also good stuff. Ron N
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