Hi Stan, Steinway Guide rails are "designed" to be rather loose. Proper regulation of the wire means bending them in such a way that there is slight side-bearing on the guide rail felt to control any wobbling tendencies. Once you've established that slight side bearing, that's when you move to the wire above the guide rail and space the damper heads to the strings. I'm not sure if that will help or not, but just thought I'd mention that "loose" bushings on a S&S guide rail are "factory standard," and can be made to work as well as any other system, IMO. William R. Monroe On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 2:30 PM, Stan Kroeker <smkroeker at shaw.ca> wrote: > Dear Colleagues, > > Am regretting not replacing damper guiderail bushings on a recent Steinway > (1976 B) parts retrofit. The new damper action installed smoothly and > required only minimal re-bending of damper wires. However, in spite of > careful attention to proper alignment and seating of bichord and trichord > damper wedges, I can't seem to eradicate an 'oink' together with > longer-than-satisfactory 'ringing-on' of most dampers in this part of the > scale. > > There is actually quite a bit of free play in the guiderail bushings ... > you can see the damper head wobble when the key is struck. Am kicking > myself for neglecting this important interface but, short of rebushing the > rails, has anyone had success with moistening the bushings in hopes of > swelling them back to acceptable tolerance? I sometimes do that with > moderately compressed keybushings ... would it work on these as well? If > so, would you mind sharing the procedure? > > Thanks and best regards from the Canadian prairie! > > Stan Kroeker, RPT > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/caut.php/attachments/20091121/f6b0a34e/attachment.htm>
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