[CAUT] Fwd: WNG parts

[Ed Sutton]

Alan-

How did the bushing change, did it get tighter or looser?
What caused it to change? Playing? Humidity? Was it a gobbed up, worn mortise? What kind of cloth?

I'm assuming you're telling us that despite bushing problems, the anodized aluminum pin performed well, yes?

Ed Sutton
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: reggaepass at aol.com 
  To: caut at ptg.org 
  Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 5:30 PM
  Subject: [CAUT] Fwd: WNG parts


  A follow-up to my previous post about WN&G front pins (see below)... 


  The bad news is that the front rail bushing referenced has since changed enough that there is no longer a "slight but positive knock" from side to side :(  However, the static touch weight measurement is now 48 grs. down, 24 grs. up for 12 grs. of friction, which is very impressive, under the circumstances :)  FYI.


  Alan Eder


  -----Original Message-----
  From: reggaepass at aol.com
  To: caut at ptg.org
  Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 10:58 am
  Subject: Re: [CAUT] WNG parts




    I wonder if  the key bushings fit can be a little closer adjusted with these pins?? Tolerance?
  I just installed a set on an S&S B that had chronically nicked front rail pins.  As an experiment, I initially left a few bushings so that the keys were free, but there was no detectible "clearance" from side to side--wildly hopeful that this could work, reducing energy loss from key wiggle while arresting the rate of wear on the bushing.  Static touch weight measurement indicated that there was not as much friction as one would expect from a conventional front rail pin with this "zero tolerance" set-up, but to work optimally, it still needed a slight but positive knock from side to side. 


  Alan Eder

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Chris Solliday <csolliday at rcn.com>
  To: caut at ptg.org
  Sent: Sun, Sep 6, 2009 5:58 am
  Subject: [CAUT] WNG parts


  My big concern with these parts is the felt bushings. The samples I received had inconsistent pinning. I have not yet had time to repin and check on the results but it seems to me that the success of these parts is going to, in large part, come from their reliablility. Fit seems to be very good. I wonder how you replace a bushing that comes out. What glue to use?
  So far every manufacutrer of parts has had runs of difficult to service felt. Will this be any different?
  I'm in the middle of a M&H BB rebuild and would like to try these parts, so any insight from those who have done this would be most appreciative. I'm not too concerned about the tonal characteristics of the shanks themselves as long as they are consistent and as I read the specified tolerances they seem to be much more so than hornbeam. I think using Ronsen Bacon or Abel Naturals will be my choice. A softer hammer makes sense to me.
  I am also encountering some reluctance on the part =0 Aof a certain keyboard maker to use the keypins and backchecks for a replacement keyboard.I'll do the backchecks myself but it would be handy to have him install the pins with the new keys. Anybody have any experience with replacing Aeolian vintage M&H BB keyboards? I wonder if M&H does this? I wonder if  the key bushings fit can be a little closer adjusted with these pins?? Tolerance?
  Well I only have questions anybody got answers?
  thanks, 
  Chris Solliday 
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