Falconwood Pinblock Problems

[Jim_Harvey@yca.ccmail.compuserve.com]

     I'll go on record as also advocating the use of pin-driving fluid. A
     few comments...

     1. I first picked up on this idea years ago from Ernie Dege[RPTd] of
     the Los Angeles Chapter. In an open forum, he commented that he would
     like to be in the position to go back and reinstall every pinblock
     he'd ever done *without* pin-driving fluid [meaning he'd like to add
     it, in case that wasn't clear]. That statement was enough to get me to
     try it at least once. After the first one, I was hooked.

     2. Speaking of the first one, and for those who haven't tried it, your
     initial impression after driving and tuning w/driving fluid is that
     you just made a BIG mistake! Sometimes the tension on the first few
     bass strings will cause the string to detune so fast, the pin will
     chase the tuning lever downward. With less tension involved, other
     strings will feel 'iffy'. This sensation disappears shortly -- a day
     or so -- the results being a velvety, positive movement of the tuning
     pins, without the typical snap, crackle and pop sounds.

     3. My method is to swab pin-driving fluid in the holes about a
     half-octave at a time -- ahead of where I'm about to string.

     4. I agree with Ed Hilbert in the belief that the 'active' ingredient
     to is "natural" varnish.

     Jim Harvey, RPT
__________ Reply Separator ____________
     I too have used pin driving fluid over the years and agree that it
makes pin driving much easier.  The pins of course will not feel as tight
initially as they will after the fluid has finished setting up. Like Horace
I also have used Trefz pin driving fluid for years.  Indeed I got my first
bottle in 1966 when I used to get it over tghe counter at Trefz in P
Philadephia before the fire.  In more recent years I bought it directly from
Ed Trefz
          As for the composition of the fluid, Horace, you may be right about
the shellac, but I was always under the impression that it is varnish with
 rosin and I believe that is what Ed Trefz told me years ago when I asked him.
His only comment about the varnish was that it should be a natural varnish,
not a synthetic or have any sorts of additives to it.  I presume that would
not using polyurethane, for instance.