Cracked bridge

[Paul Stephens]

Larry Fisher wrote:
>
> I've got a console Kimball coming in the shop today that has developed a
> crack in the very high treble bridge.  The crack is in the usual place,
> between the pins.  I need suggestions for repair.  Epoxy fill, Weldwood
> clamp, catalist filler, router and recap, etc.  I'm of course looking for
> cost effective, relative to the quality of the instrument and the customer's
> pocket book, and longevity of repair, something that will last another 15-25
> years or so.  Any suggestions??  I'm leaning towards packing some wood
> compatable Epoxy down the crack and clamping.  I've got a problem with this
> because the wood wanted to split there in the first place, and clamping it
> would simply make it want to crack there again.  (stored energy)  How about
> filling the crack with that same Epoxy and redrilling the pin holes, or
> filling the crack with a catalist type plastic filler, and redrilling.
>
> The router and recap routine is out of the question for this repair.  It's
> too costly, and I'm not set up for it.  Plus I don't feel the piano is worth
> the expense if other repairs will work just as well.
>
> Take your best shot guys.
>
> Lar
> Larry,

I have always used West System epoxy for this kind of repair. If the
bridge pins are literally falling out, I remove the pins then fill and
clamp the bridge.  You can then redefine the notching and redrill the pin
holes.  If the holes are visible when the crack is nearly clamped closed,
insert the pins into the oozing epoxy; finish clamping and wipe up the
squeeze out.  Use the slow hardener for lower viscosity and better flow
into every fissure. You can buy West Systems products from West Marine
Dealers (this is a different company with dealers all along the west
coast).  I would not use polyester resin.  In my experience, it is too
brittle to work easily.

Paul Stephens, RPT