Newton, Thank you for getting some information from a technical source to help our discussion along. The use of a nail is not being recommended to replace plated pins on expensive grand pianos. Nor is it being suggested that you go to a box and pull out a nail and pound it into a plate. The proper use of the material that happens to be formed into the shape of a nail is what is being suggested. To Anyone Else Still Struggling Along With This Topic, This dialogue is of particular importance to those of us who are rescaling and frequently adding hitch pins to compensate for inadequate scale designs. We routinely add fine wound bass string bichords in place of previous plain wire unisons at the tenor break. Adding two, three or even four additional hitch pins is required for the very poorly( 5 foot and under) scaled pianos. What is being sold as a hitch pin in catalogs presently, and correct me if I'm wrong, is a case hardened little slug about a half inch long. This is not very forgiving material, in many ways. 1. Trying to drill a precision hole for it with a hand drill. 2. Getting a good, tight compression fit. 3. Getting the proper angle because you can't peen it over. 4. Too short in relation to existing hitchpins. Please understand, the harder the material used as a hitch pin, the more likely a problem will develop with either proper fit and/or cracking of the plate. If you are a factory-no problem, just get another! Since the subject needs further instruction as to how, I thought I would post our method, somewhat in detail. This application is appropriate for any plate which has the more traditional style hitch pin, which includes most pianos. The pin of choice for our shop is the material, found in the form and shape of a 16 penny nail. (not a 20 penny nail as I had earlier posted). First we cut the 16p nail to a proper length, so that it will match the neighboring hitch pins in length, plus the plate depth. (Once this cut has been made we have successfully removed the hitch pin from the nail). It is now a baby hitch pin. We chuck that baby into the drill press and round both ends with a file. The end that is going into the plate we give a slight taper to using the file. This acts to seat/wedge the pin into the hole. We drill a hole into the plate several thousandths less than the nail and tap the nail into the hole lightly to see how it is seating. Repeat tapering, as needed, the newly formed hitch pin until it fits well into the hole and give it a final seating blow when confident that it is down into the hole properly. Peen the top over to match the neighbors. (This method was developed in house by our rebuilder David Hagberg.) You see what started out a 16 penny nail is no longer a nail. It is a mild steel hitch pin of equivilent quality and installation to the original manufacturer's product. David Sanderson Littleton, MA Pianobiz@aol.com
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