"Rud. Ibach Sohn"

Barrie Heaton Piano@forte.airtime.co.uk
Tue, 12 Nov 1996 20:46:11 +0000


 Hi Dale,

If you have all the original parts intact then the process is
straightforward as they were a well made piano.

Hammers  Your best bet is to have these re-covered rather than replace
(go for a light weight hammer).
they use butt plates to attach the flange to the hammer butt.  Recover
leathers notch cushions and notch pads in the normal.  If you need to
replace odd butts standard English butts with the minor modification to
the balance hammer shank.  they will suffice.

Bottom sections.  The most tricky part of the bottom section depending
on the model is the way in lost motion is taken out,  this is a brass
screw which passes through the bottom section with a dolly on the end,
which comes in contact with the key pad.  It is best to grip the bottom
section with a pair of pliers whilst turning the screw so you do not put
pressure on the flange.  Recentre the jacks and flanges in the normal
way check the check felt, replace if necessary re-burnished the jacks
check the set off screws to see if they are free,  paper out any groves
in the set off pads.

Dampers.  This is where you may have to do a bit of importing.  If you
need to change the damper felt you will need some end grain felt (this
is not the same as the felt you use on underdampers) for the treble
section normal clip and wedge dampers will fit the base section.
The end grain felt is best fitted in one continuos strip, so remove the
hammer heads being careful as the wires can be fragile, the heads are on
a screwed wire.  align your heads in a row after cleaning old felt off
place some sticky tape over the backs of the heads. The end grain felt
should have a backing felt along the back and up the sides this is to
protect the felt from splaying out, the backing felt should come up
three quarters of the sides of the end grain felt.  The whole thing then
should be glued in position on top of your row damp heads with a very
sharp knife tilt the damper heads on their side and slice down each
damper this should give you a nice clean fit.  With it being end grain
it will cut very easily replace heads back on to wires it is a good
idea to count the number of turns for each head when you take them off
and turn them back on the same amount.

End grain felt can be obtained from Heckschers and Co.  75 Bayham
Street, London. NW1 OAA tel: 01713871735 fax 017138730431

Regulating

With the dampers off do the hammer spacing and travel as normal.  The
hammer blow should be set to 47mm the set off should be 3mm and the
checking should be 12 to 15 mm key depth of touch 10mm sharps should be
set 12mm above naturals and should protrude 2 mm above naturals when
depress.  Dampers should be placed on individually and spaced.  Damper
lift should be three quarters of the hammer travel and the slap rail
should be set so there is 1 mm clearance, bird cage dampers have the
same characteaisics as grand dampers especially the kick back I bend and
tweak the dampers to a straight edge on the bench first then I do it in
the piano if the dampers are a bit of a bitch then I take them all off
and put them back on one at a time and reg and space as I go along If
you are left hand start in the treble and if you are right handed start
in the bass  .

Any problems give us an email and I will talk you through it.

Kind Regard,
Barrie.

p.s. good luck.


In article <961112074934_1815001622@emout12.mail.aol.com>,
Daleboy@aol.com writes
>Dear list,
>       Anybody have any info on a manufacturer by the name of Rud. Ibach
>Sohn.....apparently German according to my client.
>This particular instrument is of the "Bird Cage Action"
>configuration........availability of replacement parts???
>      Don't worry........covered my hind parts with a rather hefty quote per
>hour for repair and R&D of new parts.
>Many thanks!
>
>Dale Whitehead, RPT
>Franklin, TN
>





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