Jim, Thanks for the great answer. To summarize: the angle is for a clean release of the _wood pattern_, not the finished plate. (We learned that the wood pattern is made 2% larger to allow for cast iron shrinkage when the actual plate cools). And the sand is used for only one plate at a time. OK, thanks again, Jim ----Joel Jim wrote: > > Joel and Priscilla: > > I tho't I'd jump in and answer this one. > > When a plate has been designed, a wooden pattern (often solid mahogony) is > prepared using a shrink rule (1/8 inch per foot larger than normal). > This pattern is mounted to a follow board (heavy platform). A rectangular > flask (like a heavy formed steel band) is placed on top of the board. This > flask is about 12 inches high all the way around. There is a steel > reinforcing grid across the top of the flask which holds the sides rigidly. > A powdery releasing compound is lightly dusted over the entire follow > board and the pattern. > > Sand is poured down thru the grid to completely cover the pattern. Workers > standing on top of the grid begin ramming the sand tightly around the pattern > and solid upon the follow board. Jack hammers and ramming rods are used. > > This sand is a special mixture of sand, bentonite, molasses and perhaps other > ingredients which make the sand stick together when compacted. > > There a flask which holds the molded sand for the shape of the top side of > the plate pattern and then another flask which holds the molded sand for the > shape of the bottom side of the plate pattern (like the horn, bosses, etc.). > > These two flasks are called the cope and the drag. When they are lifted > off of the pattern, the draft angle is important to avoid any sand being > accidently dislodged and falling down from the flask which holds > the reverse shape of the pattern. The cope side has little sprue holes > carved into the sand to allow pouring in the white hot metal mix when > the cope and drag are mated together. When they are mated together, there > is a piano plate shaped space between the cope and the drag. The > sprue hole are placed so that all parts of the cavity between the cope > and drag are completely filled and running over. After the metal cools > sufficiently, the flasks are removed, or the sand is shaken out. The sand > usually goes onto conveyor belts which takes it up to be renewed and > processed for use in some future casting. The plate is then shot peened, > sent for curing, then ground down at rough edges, and then drilled. If any > sand had fallen into the cavity before pouring, it would have ruined the > plate. Hence, the need for good draft angle. the foundry would > really like 4 to 7 degrees draft angle to help avoid cave-ins. > > Jim Coleman, Sr. > > On Wed, 27 Nov 1996, Joel Rappaport wrote: > > > Danny, > > You are the perfect one to ask a question that occurred to me while > > reading the various responses in this thread. How many times is a sand > > mold used to cast a plate? Is the draft angle necessary for a clean > > release so as not to disturb the sand of the molding so it can be used > > again, or for a clean casting? > > > > ----Joel > > > > Danny Dover, RPT > > Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH wrote: > > > > > Patternmaking has its own set of rules, just as we have, to design > > > pieces that will release cleanly from the sand mold. One of those rules is, > > > the deeper the impression in the sand (that is, the higher the vertical wall of > > > the piece coming out of the sand), the more draft angle required to get a clean > > > release. So if the height of the flange changes, you can expect the > > > patternmaker to have changed the angle as well, to make sure they pour a clean > > > plate every time. > >
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