I would add to this: Before applying_any_solution, raise the pitch; rough tune. This will limit pin motion and add to stability. I have even pitch raised, rough tuned (actually two pitch raisings), treated (grands upside-down, never done an upright); then driven pins (into more swollen wood). Followed-up with tunings. * Someone suggested using automotive anti-freeze, * saying it_has_ethylene glycol . . . what else do you need? (I'm not going out on a limb and say I've actually tried this. But . . .) Jon Page Cape Cod. Mass jpage@capecod.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ At 05:39 PM 11/28/96 -0600, you wrote: >> From: Barb Barasa <bbarasa@mind.net> >> "When nothing is sure, Everything is possible." I like that ! >> To: pianotech@byu.edu >> Subject: Re: Pin Block Treatment >> Date: Wednesday, November 27, 1996 10:35 PM >> I guess my question is, how do you know that just driving the pins would >not have been equally effective? As long as the block isn't cracked, this >seems to give a lot of years in and of itself. >Richard m writes: >They do not "set right" after tuning, then pin block treatment is considered. In >most cases the pins have already been driven, or are too close to be driven. >In driving the pins using the punch with the handle gives a lot better >feel for the work and saves a lot of tuning after.
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