stripped S&S hammer flange screws

Travis Gordy tgordy@fullnet.net
Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:33:06 -0500


Richard Moody wrote:
>
> ----------
> From:   BOYINGTONR@aol.com[SMTP:BOYINGTONR@aol.com]
> Sent:   Monday, September 23, 1996 1:11 AM
> To:     pianotech@byu.edu
> Subject:        stripped S&S hammer flange screws
>
> Dear list,
>
> I've encountered a handful of stripped hammer flange screws on a model O. Is
> there any effective method of tightening these up, short of the difficult job
> of replacing the rail itself?
>
> My thanks in advance,
>
> Richard Boyington, RPT
> Chief Staff Technician
> Amro Music Stores, Inc.
> Memphis, TN

Richard

This may be too late to influence your method of repairing the stripped
screw holes but for the record I wish to defend the use of wood slivers
and glue.  For many years I have had excellant results repairing large
and small holes using strips of wood sliced from a piece of hammer shank
or a round toothpick.  When I think it important to preserve the
centerline of the hole, as in your case for example, I prepare three
slivers just long enough to be flush with the top of the hole when fully
inserted, coat each with glue (white glue such as Titebond) and try to
arrange them about 120 degrees apart in the hole. Immediately (ie don't
wait for the glue to set) put the screw in the hole and tighten down to
a depth it would normally be.  The screw serves as a clamp to make a
good bond between what's left of the slivers and the wood of the hole.
Wipe off excess glue. If the wood still has integrity for a good glue
bond this will be a good fix. In most such repairs the parts can be
immediately screwed together, such as leg and lyre screws.

I had not heard of the leather strip repair before and will probably try
it one of these days.

Travis Gordy





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