> From: "Gregory Torres" <tunapiana@adisfwb.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Subject: Re: keytop replacment questions ( and ivorine story ) > Date: Tue, 2 Dec 1997 01:21:08 -0600 > Reply-to: pianotech@ptg.org I have burned off ivorine key fronts for years. If they won't let go easily with a blade I torch them. Outside of course. The carbon residue I remove with sandpaper/block before gluing. David ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA > Dave: > > Not all the pre-molded keytops are .90" and ivorine is very hazardous to > work with. There are good keytops available from Yamaha without tops as well > as the ones from American Supply and Schaff. Vagias Ventures sells a whole > assortment of keytops, in many shades of white, off-white and simulated > ivory. > > Regarding ivorine-I once almost set my shop (and house) on fire when I tried > using my table saw to cut off a whole set of really stubborn fronts from > this one particular grand (didn't know they were ivorine) when about halfway > through the cut flames and toxic smoke arose out from under the table saw > and if it wasn't for my quick reaction with a shop rag and fire extinguisher > it would have been really bad. > > Ever use a heat gun to remove old ivory? works real good but don't try it on > ivorine..... > > Any body else have any "Scary Ivorine" stories? > > Greg Torres > -----Original Message----- > From: DGPEAKE@aol.com <DGPEAKE@aol.com>> >Barrie, > > > >The problem with pre-moulded key covers are numerous. First of all they > are > >.90 when ivory is around .20 thick. They also are not made of ivorine and > >therefore show a lot of scratches. The keytop also tends to crack. > > > >Ivorine is the way to go and in my opinion, look a lot nicer. It takes > more > >time, but the outcome is well worth it. > > > >Dave Peake, RPT > >Portland, OR > > > > > > >
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