Hi Mike, THERE ARE TWO variations some manufacturers just screwed the keybed down in the normal way, and if you look closely they stamped the keys to indicate where the screws are. Generally speaking this type of action the key rail and key blocks come out with the action. The second type the manufacturers were a little more devious they hid the screws under there key blocks, you will have to remove the key blocks and the key rail. There are two screws on the front touch rail set in at an angle. You don't always notice them. On both actions the action body is held up to the strings with two long pins which you should have seen. Front touch : The Germans used a back rail stop, this method is not very good as there is very little room for individual adjustment. I tend to turn up the back rail and place front touch washers in it place. The other problem with the back touch stop rail is that the keys tend to break more on heavy playing so "Bonkers" beware. Dampers: Tend to be not very efficient on these models, some of these manufacturers also put some quirky little springs on top of the checks which protruded over and came in contact with the top of the balance hammer a form of extra repition. The action sits on the key frame with three screws, on either side holding it to the key frame, the bottom sections are connected to the keys via push rods these push rods go in to a hole in the key at the bottom of the hole there is a screw to adjust lost motion. The only advantage of this action is you can do your lost motion level your keys set your depth of touch with the action out of the piano. Otherwise they can be a bit of a monster, specially if you are in a small house with not much room to put the action on the floor. I don't see why you should panic about tuning these I must have about twenty on my round . Regards, Barrie. In article <970217204633_-1608633563@emout20.mail.aol.com>, MHoffman11@aol.com writes >Hello Birdcage experts! > >In a fit of insanity, I agreed to tune a birdcage for a regular customer. He >also has a nice 1920's Bechstein grand; that was the bait to get me to tune >the beastie. > >It's a W. Gutzweit, #6276 made in Berlin, 85-note affair. It pulled right up >to A440, but one question I have is: HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE &%#$@ >ACTION OUT? I consider myself competent in technical abilities; or at least >did until I met this monster and tried to tighten the whippen screws. I >removed the damper rail so that I could tune it...no problem with that. The >rest of the action has the wooden brackets (one on each end). These are >secured on the top by a flip latch and by a screw under the keybed. I >removed the screw, and the brackets loosened only slightly. There seems to >be a dowel or pin still holding it tight. I tried lifting, pushing forward, >pushing back, etc., to no avail. Does anyone (Barrie, Andre or perhaps a >few smart, helpful Germans that will stop laughing long enough to help?!) > know anything about these creatures? > >The other "problem" I found is that there are NO front rail felt punchings. > Is this a normal condition for old, German pianos??!! Curiously, there is >no knocking sound while it's being played. Go figure. There are really >thin, almost paper-thin balance rail felts, though. > >So stop giggling out there and send me some help. I promise that I will >never again agree to tune a birdcage, no matter how much they pay me! > >Stay tuned & best wishes, > >Mike Hoffman, RPT >Marquette, MI > -- Barrie Heaton | Be Environmentally Friendly URL: http://www.airtime.co.uk/forte/piano.htm | To Your Neighbour The UK PIano Page | pgp key on request | HAVE YOUR PIANO TUNED
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