Tuning Pin tightner

[Richard Moody]

The advocation of non use of TP tightner seems to have boiled down to
philosophical, hinging on the suspicion of "ruining" pin blocks.  The
first consideration for loose pins is if they can be driven.
However if driving is not the answer, what else is there to consider?
Replacing the pins, replacing the pins and the pin block,  or
treating the pins.  If treating the pins does work, what are the
ramifications?  The worry that the pin block might be "ruined" for
future restringing?  That a restring job got put off for another ten
to twenty years or more?  Is any piano whose ultimate worth of less
than 3,000 dollars, a candidate for restringing?  What about the
thousands of uprights that will never be worth more than a thousand
dollars, those that can be made tuneable by using TP tightner?
	The archives contain testiments of those who swear by tuning pin
tightner, and those who swear at it.  It seems the cursers are in the
minority, citing black gooey crud around the pins, and if a pin is
removed all kinds of "rust" and gunk, and the pins themselves feeling
like they are in a soggy spongey block.   It also seems like these
pianos are in an extremely humid climate, or came from one. It is
also possible that the objectionable residue is part of another
procedure of using a few drops of light machine oil to prevent rust
on the coils and strings.   Others talk about the "dope" getting on
strings and causing rust and other messes.  However this is an
indication of mis-use. Keep in mind Garfields is clear, well slightly
green, and diluted with denatured alcohol,  tastes like it has
glycerin in it, and doesn't leave a discolored residue,  while the
others that are dark, smell piney, or like rosin, and very well could
leave a dark residue, especially if applied by a slop artist.
	For those who swear by, including me, it is Garfields.  Follow the
directions. Yes, the piano must be laid on its back, not just tilted,
but horizontal. Use a hypo-oiler or APSCO plastic oiler, not the
applicator that comes with some other brands, and not a plunge type
hyperdermic. The hypo oiler is neat in that if a little too much is
dispensed, you can suck it back up and get to areas below the coils
that you can't with the blunt nosed applicator.  The tip of a paper
towel is better than a Q-Tip for cleaning up, but you should aim for
an application technique that does not require wiping up excess, or
cleaning off coils. The only thing I don't like about Garfields is
that you have to dilute it.  There must be a reason they don't offer
pre-diluted bottles of it.  After a week, test the pins, if they
still feel loose, apply another "dose".  If they are still too loose,
well I couldn't advise, it has never happened to me. Of course as Les
Smith mentioned, its not that common of a repair, I would be
surprised if I have used a quart of it since 1972.
	One consideration is to inspect the pins closely before applying.
Do you see a black crud already?  Is there a faint odor of oil as in
player piano spool box gears, old clocks, sewing machines, or gun
locks?  If you rub the pins with your fore finger, is there an oily
residue, or just dry dust, or light rust in some cases? How do the
pin bushings look as compared to a piano that whose bushings look
fresh and dry?   If you are using T pin treatment for pins that have
been previously "treated" for rust, or been sprayed in the past with
WD 40, the results may vary, and the client should be so advised.

Richard Moody
Replying to ...

> From: Les Smith <lessmith@buffnet.net>
> To: pianotech@byu.edu
> Subject: Re: PIN DOPE!
> Date: Tuesday, February 25, 1997 9:45 AM
>
> If you check the archives, there was an extensive thread on this
subject
> about a year ago. <snip>
>you might want to consider using a pin-tightener that
> has withstood the test of time.
> Garfield's Pin- Block Restorer.
<snip>
> Les Smith
> lessmith@buffnet.net
>
>
>
>
>