Rob and List; Because I am still a bit of a techno-idiot I've not looked at the archives, but I'm sure this has been discussed before. Basically, a die grinder is mounted in a jig (made by you or bought from Bill) with a V shaped router bit in it. The bit is @ a 10 degree angle on each side and the jig fits in/on and runs along a section of 1x1" aluminum angle stock. The stock is taped to the board with double-sided 3M mounting tape (very strong/sticky stuff). You make about three-five passes (deeper each time) with the bit into the crack down to the ribs. You then use solid spruce (quarter-sawn just like the soundboard) stock cut @10 degree angles (cut by you or ordered from Bill) that fits PERFECTLY into the cut, glue it, hold it down with go-bars to clamp them, trim with a chisel after dry, sand, then marvel at it all. My refinisher uses a tiny air gun with stain in it to match the color of the shim to the soundboard. It's beautiful. Even if the repair can be seen, it's a "sound" woodworking repair that you can be proud of. I order a 1" x 6" board from a place in Washington state or Oregon (address provided by Bill), cut the shims on the bandsaw (very easy), and only spent about $20 for the die grinder. No more long hours on a soundboard. After the first piano it really goes by quickly and each repair is exact. You can get within about an inch of the rim and bridges. Bill includes info on drying the board, methods, addresses of suppliers, etc., etc. Check the archives or write me if you need more info. BTW, I'm really impressed with your homepage. That's a great resource!! Bill's address, etc. is below!! Good Luck, Lance Lafargue, RPT New Orleans Chapter lafargue@iamerica.net Write: Bill Surlock 3574 Cantelow Rd. Vacaville, CA 95688 e-mail 74077.3053@Compuserve.COM Rob Kiddell wrote: > > >Rob & List; > >Are you talking about a soundboard crack?? Are you familiar with the > >Spurlock method of using a die grinder with a router bit in it?? > > >Lance Lafargue, RPT > >New Orleans Chapter > >lafargue@iamerica.net > > Lance, > > I'm referring to the crack on the board that runs between the ribs. > I haven't seen Bill's method, but I'd l ike to hear more about it. I > assume that one uses the router bit to enlarge the crack and then > shim with wooden wedges. I'm also looking for ways to fill small > soundboard cracks without enlarging them. > > Thanks for the reply, > > Rob Kiddell > R.P.T., P.T.G. > C.A.P.T. Student > Edmonton, Canada > http://www.planet.eon.net/~atonal/atonal.html
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