Ivory, plastic or bone?

[Richard Moody]

You asked....


>	 I would like some help...have a client that wants an ivory touch
and wondered
> if there is a simulated ivory product that someone has been happy
with.  

For Molded plastic keytops
This should be done on a keyboard you own. 
Steel wool ALL the plastic tops with steel wool, (#0000). Hold to
light and sand imperfections as fine (440) as you can, then steel
wool again.   Use polishing compounds and buff to desired sheen. 
Plastic does work up like ivory sort of. and will "hold to light", to
see the exact nature of your work.   Have the client try the
keyboard.  If they like it, you know what they want and how long it
took, then give an estimate. 
	 These $13 sets now come in white and a barely perceptible off shade
from APSCO. (and others I presume) I  wish they had the next shade
darker in the same degree from pure white. The problem with plastic
keytops is after they are trimmed, the edges and especially corners,
must be smoothed and rounded so as to be acceptable to touch when
playing.  
	Any "short cuts" on this aspect would be appreciated.

	For individual ivory head replacement try the simulated ivory heads
from various catalogues.  I have "lost" them on keyboards.  They are
that good in appearance.They are also not as slick as molded
plastic,so not that noticible in feel.  (well one here and there at
least)    Perhaps   molded plastic keytops could be made out of this
material.  Hint HINT.

Richard Moody    
----------
> From: ETomlinCF3@aol.com
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Ivory, plastic or bone?
> Date: Sunday, June 08, 1997 2:54 PM
> 
> I would like some help...have a client that wants an ivory touch
and wondered
> if there is a simulated ivory product that someone has been happy
with.  I
> realize Yamaha rules when it comes to ivory replication but they do
not sell
> their Ivorite to the public.  The customer finds the slick feel of
plastic
> offensive.  I would love to hear any responses.
> 
> Ed Tomlinson
> Tomlinson Tuning and Repair