Dear List: I have been following this keytop thread and just wanted to give my opinion about Ivory replacement and keytops in general. I have not tried the CA glue on keytops or ivory but what I have found to be the best for complete keytop jobs is stuff called "Liquid Nails". It comes in a squeeze-tube, is white in color and is a latex base. I have used all kinds of contact cement, keytops dissolved in acetone, and a few other glues but this stuff is great. (It is NOT good for Ivory though, it curls the ivory as it dries! Use Duco cement) Because it is a latex base it doesn't have hardly any odor and it dries relatively quick. The great thing about it is when you have remover the old keytops or ivories if there are any gouges in the key this stuff FILLS as well. Another reason I like it is if you get a keytop on crooked and don't catch it till even an hour or two you can carefully pry it up using a thin knife and then reglue it easily. It dries strong in about two to three hours but fully cures in about 24. You can get it at any Home depot or most hardware stores. Costs about 2 bucks a tube and 1 tube will do a whole set and then some. As for loose ivory I use a white lacquer (spray can) after cleaning the key with denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner or acetone. (rubbing alcohol will do in a pinch) Then DUCO cement. I have never had a customer want to spend the kind of money I want to do a complete ivory repair as I'm sure most of you techs know that it is next to impossible to get the shades to match. For the customers that want that old fashioned ivory look I use the "simulated" ivory keytops from Vagias Ventures, Inc. (they're the company who makes the plastic elbows I believe) I do believe they are still in business and I have a sample sheet with 8 different shades and lengths, although they do not have the fronts attached-you have to put those on separately. Happy Re-Keying folks... Greg Torres, Niceville Fla tunapiana@aol.com
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC